I’ve been going to dude ranches way before Yellowstone or Beyoncé made cowboy culture cool. When I moved to Colorado from the East Coast more than a decade ago, I made a point to play out my cowgirl fantasies at least once a year. Initially, the activities—horseback riding, fly fishing, archery, hiking, clay shooting—motivated the trips. But it was the vast landscapes that kept pulling me back. Immersed in big nature, I felt my entire nervous system reset. Over the years, some of my best girlfriend getaways have been to ranches in the American West. Cute wranglers and an opportunity to don boots and cowgirl hats are part of the draw, but really, there’s no better way to reconnect with friends than on a long trail ride, lazy float trip, or sipping whiskey under a starry sky. Whether your priority is riding or relaxing, there’s a ranch that will deliver just the right amount of Wild West adventure you crave. Here’s my very subjective list of the best ranches in the West.

When Riding is the Main Event

3 Spear Ranch, Dubois, Wyoming
Owner Creed Garnick is a former rodeo star who hails from one of Wyoming’s oldest ranching families. He even traveled to Kyrgyzstan to captain the first U.S. team in kok-boru, an outrageous Central Asian horseback sport. All that’s to say, is this guy can ride and 3 Spear’s overnight pack trips in the Dunoir Valley are a dream for riders who want to spend all day in the saddle. You can read more about the ranch in my feature in Robb Report.

Paintrock Canyon Ranch, Hyattville, Wyoming
Now in its third season, this 80,000-acre working cattle ranch at the edge of Wyoming’s Bighorn Mountains is owned and operated by Ranchlands, a fourth-generation, family-owned ranch management company focused on land stewardship and conservation. Throughout the year, Paintrock offers a handful of advanced riders’ weeks that explore parts of the ranch only reachable on longer, faster-paced rides. Be ready to be saddle sore. You can learn more about Ranchlands and Paintrock from this Q&A I did with founder Duke Phillips III.

For a Ranch of Your Own

Reid Creek Lodge, Douglas, Wyoming
This exclusive-use lodge on the 300,000 acres of Wagonhound Land & Livestock can accommodate up to 14 guests. You can fine-tune your riding skills in the property’s state-of-the-art equestrian arena before heading out on the endless network of trails. There’s also a mechanical bull for guests who want to test their rodeo skills.

Smith Fork Ranch, Crawford, Colorado
L.A.-based design firm Commune just gave this exclusive-use property a hip refresh; a riverside spa was added this summer. Anglers won’t want to miss the Gold Medal fly fishing on the Gunnison and highly underrated Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is just 30 minutes away.

For a Summer Camp Vibe

Tumbling River Ranch, Grant, Colorado
Campfire sing-a-longs led by local folk artist Randall McKinnon, lawn games like corn hole and ladder toss, S’mores for the kiddos and beer poking for the adults. This historic ranch has welcomed families for 80 years and still has a nostalgic pull. New owners recently gave the 21-room property an $8 million overhaul. The talented chef hails from Dunton Hot Springs and the creekside, lined with cedar hot tubs, a barrel sauna, and the natural cold plunge, is exactly where you’ll want to end your day after rock climbing, horseback riding, rafting, and hiking.

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For the Pinnacle of Western Luxury

The Ranch at Rock Creek, Philipsburg, Montana
The Ranch at Rock Creek has set the bar for wow-factor bells and whistles, including a bowling alley, karaoke, a cinema, and a saloon with vintage saddle stools. But at the end of the day, guests rebook for the old-school experiences, like the ranch rodeo and float trips that are straight out of A River Runs Through It.

For an American Safari Experience

Vermejo, Raton, New Mexico
Part of the late Ted Turner's conservation-driven reserve portfolio, Vermejo feels like a private national park. Spread across more than a half million acres of wilderness, the property boasts 19 fishable lakes, 30 miles of streams, and loads of wildlife. The fall elk rut is not-to-be-missed, and spring is full of fuzzy baby bison. On my last visit, we actually watched a bison give birth.

For the Littles

Brush Creek Ranch, Saratoga, Wyoming
The Li’l Wranglers program keeps kids ages 4 to 9 occupied from sunup to sundown with pursuits like capture the flag, scavenger hunts, water gun fights, and gold panning. Older kids can channel their inner wrangler on cattle drives, barrel racing clinics, and horsemanship workshops.

C Lazy U Ranch, Granby, Colorado
Kids feel like VIPs at C Lazy U. The ranch has dedicated programs for teens, kids, and “little ranch hands” ages 3 to 5 with activities that range from pony rides and donkey grooming to pond fishing and line dancing. In the summer, kids even eat separately from adults for dinner.

An Adults-Only Escape with a Culinary Edge

Magee Homestead, Saratoga, Wyoming
Brushcreek Ranch’s adults-only, sister property sits just across the street but has a more refined, relaxed vibe. The owner’s drew inspiration from Blackberry Farm and just up the road you’ll find a farm, creamery, bakery, distillery, spirit vault, and a James Bond-worthy underground wine cellar. Needless to say, the food is spectacular.

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Field Notes

A quick dispatch from my recent travels.

• Spa Spotlight: I’ve always admired how Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea has never rested on its laurels (which it easily could have post White Lotus). Always innovating and updating, the resort recently debuted Kai Holo Spa. In Hawaiian, the name loosely translates to the ocean’s flow. A stress-melting aqua thermal circuit is complimented by treatments that straddle traditional native wisdom (lomi lomi massages the incorporate fern oils sourced from Kauai), and of-the-moment biohacks (a hyberbaric oxygen chamber).

• Lodge Love: I’m just back from an epic sailing adventure in Haida Gwaii (more on that later). Moresby Island is one of the main gateways to access the archipelago’s national park reserve, marine conservation area, and Haida heritage site and Hecate’s Retreat, in the town of Sandspit, was a perfect base for an overnight before we set sail. The property recently added cozy, arched cabins with kitchenettes, plus has a sauna and cold plunge, ebikes, and a pickleball court, all complimentary for guests. The Clubhouse restaurant—one of just a handful of eateries on the island—draws a local crowd with its fresh-caught seafood and upstairs patio with ocean views.

• Memorable Meal: If I lived in Colorado’s Roaring Fork Valley, I’d be a regular at Amara, a new Mediterranean spot in the town of Carbondale, located 40 minutes northwest of Aspen. A passion project from two Little Nell alum, it’s earned cult following for its table side tinned fish service and Tuesday night paella dinners.

  

Further reading + viewing

I like to end each newsletter with links to pieces I’ve written and compelling stories I’ve recently read, listened to, or watched. Here are some favorites.

• Denver’s city magazine, 5280, devoted an entire recent issue to cowboy culture.

• It’s the summer of Jack Johnson. This profile in the New York Times has been a favorite in the barrage of coverage he’s received after the release of his new documentary, SURFILMUSIC.

• Gloria Liu’s latest piece for Outside is a great read that argues that California is now America’s most ambitious environmental experiment and its outcomes could shape climate policy far beyond the borders of the Golden State.

• I love anything Gisela Williams reports, especially her recent love letter to Mid-Coast Maine for Harper’s Bazaar.

• I wrote about finding the confidence to take my first-solo heliski trip as part of the awesome digital solo travel issue from Travel + Leisure.

Stay tuned…

• Next up, an interview with one of South Africa’s most skilled safari guides, a Q&A with the team behind Faraway Hotels, and dispatches from Jackson Hole and Haida Gwaii. Thanks for subscribing.

  

If you are looking for remote, wild, last frontier-travel, head to Alaska. I’ve visited more than a dozen times and still feel a tingle of awe with each visit. And no place has left me more awe struck than Ultima Thule. Only reachable by air, the lodge is 100 miles from the nearest road. The ancient Greeks used the word ultima thule to describe the unknowable realm beyond the northern bounds of their maps. And when you visit the lodge, you have the rare opportunity to explore the unknown on a daily basis. Nestled deep within Wrangell-St. Elias National Park—the largest protected reserve in the United States spanning 13.2 million acres of wilderness—Ultima Thule Lodge is a one-of-a-kind adventure base that also happens to be the home of the Claus family.

They have been kind enough to welcome me to their home and take me on some pinch-me-I’m-dreaming adventures over the years. During those trips, I’ve befriended Ellie Gray, a kindred spirit and the oldest of the third generation of the Claus family. I always marveled that Ellie grew up with a backyard roughly the same size as Yosemite, Yellowstone, and Switzerland combined. She could fly a plane before she could drive. And her father, Paul Claus, is one of Alaska’s most storied bush pilots. The two of them have taken me on thrilling flights in their fleet of Piper Super Cubs, landing us on footprint-free beaches and on the edge of a calving glacier.

Ellie inherited her family’s pioneering spirit and after years of dreaming and hard work, she and two partners recently opened The Great St. Elias Station within the borders of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. Here, she shares details about the new property, her goal to revive the lost art of hospitality, and why people need deep nature experiences more than ever.

The Great St. Elias Station welcomed its first guests in late July. How did you find this special piece of land and why the town of McCarthy?
“McCarthy needed something cool. It’s the main gateway to Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and the jumping off point to fly to Ultima Thule. Back in the day it was a mining town and today probably five or six multi-generational families live here. The census says 120 people claim year-round residency. My partners and I talked about doing a quirky roadside motor inn, but we weren’t finding anything we loved.

Then our friend and neighbor shared that he owned a piece of property within the borders of the park. I didn’t even think this kind of land existed. It allowed us to create something really special. The views take in magnificent peaks like Mount Blackburn and hanging glaciers. You could spend a lifetime staring at the view we have. Add in the weather that moves through and the landscape is alive and wild, very much like Ultima Thule.”

How did you come up with the name?
“We played with a lot of names and decided our namesake would be Mount St. Elias. There are mountains that capture our imagination because of what people have accomplished upon them. And then there is Mount. St. Elias, a mountain whose presence alone is enough. At 18,008 feet, she is North America's second-highest peak and one of the tallest coastal mountains on Earth. She was the first landmark Danish explorer Vitus Bering zeroed in on its lofty summit when he ‘discovered’ Alaska and he identified it on the feast day of the saint Elias, hence the name. It’s a beautiful mountain that very few people get to see.”

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What’s the journey like to reach the lodge?
“The journey is part of the experience. The fastest way is to take a charter flight from Anchorage directly to the McCarthy airstrip. You’ll be here in just over an hour. We’re literally at the end of the road so we meet guests at the Kennicott River footbridge and escort them the last mile to the lodge on foot. If you’re intrepid and have the time, the drive from Anchorage is an adventure. It’s around 300 miles and takes about seven hours. The last 60-mile stretch is on the historic, rugged McCarthy Road. This gravel road that was built on the old railroad bed that once served the Kennicott copper mines. We know guests have journeyed a long-ass way to get out here, so we have put a lot of thought into the welcome, so it feels like a celebration of that journey.”

The design is a refreshing departure from the classic backcountry Alaskan lodge? What informed the look and feel of the cabins and public spaces?
“Thankfully, all three of the partners had a similar vision and it wasn’t another traditional moose on the wall log cabin with a massive stone fireplace. Those things are great, but we wanted to do something different. We wanted to bring in a combination of historic and modern elements and draw on things we loved from other properties around the world. The exterior design leans a bit Scandi while the interiors incorporate touches from Alaska and McCarthy, like the salvaged hardwood and the custom copper sinks.

We also brought in some global design elements. We sourced tiles from Morocco that are the color of glacier water for the bathrooms because who doesn’t want to be in a shower that is tiled. We left the cabins pretty minimalist because we believe if you’re inside, you should be looking outside. Instead of hanging pictures behind the bed there are 10-foot x 5-foot bay windows that look into the valley. We wanted the wilderness to be the star.”

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What is the food experience like? The Hall seems to be the heart of the property.
“We didn’t want to be an inaccessible, ultra-exclusive lodge closed off from the community. The Hall is meant to be a place where locals and guests can gather. We commandeered the chef who had been at Ultima Thule for the past five years to help us get the culinary side of things going. We’re focused on place-relevant food. The menu isn’t trying to compete with a high-end culinary experience. We’re focusing on enhancing the experience of place through the food. We give people a great sandwich for lunch to take out on adventure. They return late afternoon and can have a charcuterie board in the Hall. Dinner changes every night. We’re developing a patio beer garden and food truck next to the Hall.”

What are some of the adventures you can curate for guests?
“We’ve partnered with a local guide service and recommend that people do a three-day adventure package that allows you to experience the park on land, water, and by air. From the lodge, you can head out and walk onto a glacier without having to get in a plane. You can keep things mellow and walk out on the ice or if you’re feeling wild you can ice climb or descend into a glacier moulin, a vertical shaft that funnels surface meltwater deep into the glacier. Water options range from white water rafting to hiking one-quarter mile from the lodge to a glacial lake where you can paddle around in an inflatable packraft. And we’re building up a flight safari option similar to what you experience at Ultima Thule. There will be a day when we can have our own Super Cub and pilot.

There’s also a historical component to this place. The human history in this valley is almost as fascinating as some of the stunning scenery. The history from the Kennicott Copper Mine era in the 1900s is remarkable. The town had 10,000 people strong. It had the most technologically advanced hospital in Alaska for its time. There was a railroad that passed over moving glaciers. It was a thriving, bustling city. It is mind boggling to comprehend what humans accomplished out here.”

What will the season be at The Great St. Elias Station?
“Right now, early May through the end of September. In the future, we’ll be exploring shoulder season options. Fall is insanely stunning in Alaska with all of the foliage, and you start to get the Northern Lights in October.”

What’s your take on modern hospitality?
“My hospitality mindset comes from growing up at Ultima Thule; through three generations of sharing our home as our business. We understand what’ it’s like to arrive out here and be in a place new and foreign. We want guests to feel like they are visiting a friend. Ultima Thule is always going to be irreplaceably magical because of that final airplane ride you have to take to be there. It’s more of a portal you walk through to be in the wilderness. The Great St. Elias Station is a bit more accessible, so it allows for a more diverse group of clients and a different price point.”

You’ve always said, Alaska isn’t right for everyone. For the people it is right for, what do they gain from investing in the journey?
“That reconnection to nature and humanity. Wilderness is the greatest equalizer. Whether you are a Fortune 500 business owner or a backpacker, when you enter the wilderness, it reminds you that you are human. The world is demanding experiences like this right now. People think AI can replace the human element. That is why we need to revive the lost art of hospitality. Money cannot buy you an authentic experience in nature with another human.”

I love road cycling, beach cruiser riding, gravel biking…but mountain biking always intimidated me. The tight turns. The rocky, root riddled terrain. The drop seat. It all sounded like a recipe for injury. But the very fact that it scared me was all the more reason to try it. Unfortunately, my first mountain bike experience was not on beginner-friendly terrain. It was in Verbier, Switzerland where our instructor left us at the top of the mountain with no instructions except, go down. Carnage ensued. I was one of the casualties. Not realizing the bike breaks are on opposite sides in Europe I launched over my handlebars and fractured my hand.

With that memory lodged in my head, it took a few years before I got back in the saddle. And when I did, I was extremely timid. But I was determined to improve. I signed up for a one-on-one mountain bike clinic with VNTRbirds, a women-run and women-focused adventure company in Colorado founded by sisters ​Kelley and Leanne Wren. The lightbulb clicked. I learned how to use the drop seat properly and position my body in the attack position. My coach had me session features like rocks and stumps to help me trust the bike’s ability to get over them. By the end of the day, I was picking my own lines down the mountain.

Earlier this year, my adventurous mother informed me she’d like to get into mountain biking…at age 69. Last month, we took a mother-daughter trip to Breckenridge, and I booked us a clinic with VNTRbirds and they paired us with coach Jen Kates. Jen is a bad ass. She was competing in SBT GRVL, a world-class gravel bike race held in Steamboat Springs, the very next day. She was funny, knowledgeable, supportive, and boosted not just our skills but our confidence. Here, she talks about the electric energy of an all-women’s mountain bike clinic, the power of positive talk and mindset, and why every rider should know the ABCs of bike safety.

“I tell my clients if you say, ‘I’m sorry’ you have to turn around and say, ‘I’m sexy.”

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How did you personally get hooked on mountain biking?
“An ex in college introduced me to it. I went to school in North Carolina and she was a mountain bike instructor. This was back in 2000 or so and I had a really old bike from the 90s. The first time I met her to ride she took one look at my bike and was like, ‘let me make sure your brakes even work.’ I survived that fist ride by the skin of my teeth. Then she took me on an easier trail with little whoopty doos and that feeling of wind in my hair—of course I had a helmet on—and hearing the tires on the dirt just hooked me.”

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The first time I met Heather Hansman in person we were both standing in line for the sole chairlift at Silverton Mountain in Colorado, waiting to be deposited into the high alpine, experts-only terrain. I had a girl crush immediately. I’d long been a fan of her writing and had the opportunity to work with her while I was an editor at Sunset magazine. You can get an idea of a person from their writing, and she was just as bad ass as I’d imagine she’d be based on her storytelling and reporting.

Heather has a knack for creating compelling narratives around important topics in the outdoors. You can tell she isn’t phoning in stories from behind a desk. She’s out there in the field. For her first book Down River: Into the Future of Water in the West, she paddled the length of the Green River, the most significant tributary of the Colorado River, in an inflatable pack raft. Her follow up, Powder Days: Ski Bums, Ski Towns, and the Future of Chasing Snow offers a glimpse of skim bum culture as she chases pow from ski towns in Colorado, Vermont, Montana, West Virginia, and beyond.

For her latest book Fierce Country: The Untold Story of Three Women who Ignited America’s Love for the Wild she could have just dug into archives and journals but instead she signed on to be a swamper (basically an unpaid rafting intern) on the Grand Canyon. Heather’s willingness to put herself in the footsteps of her characters is what sets her storytelling apart. Here, she talks about heroes, inequality in the outdoors, and the delicate act of writing a book about women and not having it be a “girl book.”

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Your new book shares the story of rafting guide Georgie White, powder skier Dolores LaChapelle, and wilderness guide Anne LaBastille. How did you choose this trio of characters?
“They had really been in the background for a while. Georgie shows up in my first book and Dolores was in Powder Days. I grew up on the East Coast near Walden Pond and Anne was this isolated hermit living in an off-grid cabin in the Adirondacks. She was a guide, writer, and scientist and I found her story really interesting. Each woman had a different idea of how to live a life in the outdoors.”

None of these women are still living. What was your research process like since you couldn’t interview them in person?
“It was very different from my other books. There was a lot more research and history. None of the three had living children. I relied heavily on stories from people who knew them. Colorado River Runners had archives on Georgie. All three women had written journals and letters,

but Georgie was a notorious liar so I really had to crosscheck her stuff. It was tough to know how deep to go into the archives. A lot of the history of recreation ended up being cut from the first draft. There was a whole chunk on sexual harassment in the Grand Canyon that I was sad to take out but it slowed down the narrative.”

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When was the last time you played with childhood abandon? I’m talking about the type of play reminiscent of youthful games such as manhunt and butts up and shenanigans like bridge jumping and seeing how many people you can ride on a cruiser bike. A recent episode of the Rich Roll podcast featuring Dr. Kelly Starrett lamented that play is dead when in fact, Dr. Starrett argued, play is the most underrated performance enhancer.

I couldn’t agree more. A few years ago, my friend Val and I were on a girls’ getaway in Mexico. We’re both fitness devotees and hit the gym daily, but our 15-minute session on the inflatable super trampoline proved to be our toughest (and most hilarious) workout. Western society has made exercise feel like punishment. If you detest the gym, try getting outside to play this summer. Last week I was in northern Vermont and put my regular workout routine on hold. Instead, I spent my days trying to keep up with teenagers on mountain bikes, e-foils, paddleboards, wakeboards, and while playing some seriously intense matches of spike ball. My body moved in ways it hadn’t in years. My Whoop strain score corroborated my efforts. None of it felt like exercise. It simply felt like fun.

One of my favorite ways to play in the summer is to get on my bike and explore. There’s no better way to get to know a destination than on two wheels. I typically loathe group travel—it gives me anxiety—but I’ve come to really enjoy group cycling trips. The outfitter handles the logistics and if you choose the right outfitter, you’ll find yourself with a likeminded crew to match your pace and interests. Here’s a very subjective list of some of my favorite bike tour companies and the destinations they specialize in.

A Bike Trip Cheat Sheet

For Customization: Backroads
My very first group cycling trip was with Backroads and it left me hooked. It was late November—prime cycling season in Arizona. We cranked out rides in Tucson and Saguaro National Park. Our guides broke us into groups and even arranged for a day when me and another Type 2 fun-loving guest could test our mettle on Mt Lemmon, Arizona’s longest climb. What I wasn’t expecting, and appreciated, was the freedom. We weren’t forced to have every meal together. Some nights they even took care of room service. There were plenty of opportunities to tack on extra miles. Somehow, they made it feel tailored to every guest.

For Discerning Die Hards: InGamba Tours
I like to joke that InGamba is the Stefano Ricci of the cycling world. Mechanics, soigneurs, $15,000 Pinarello racing bikes all make you feel like a pro. Founder João Correia lived and trained in Tuscany when he was a pro racer. He’s poured his local intel into all of his carefully curated itineraries—I have my eye on his White Roads Gravel Adventure in Tuscany.

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If You Ride to Eat (+ Drink): Butterfield & Robinson
The OG of bike adventure companies, Butterfield & Robinson continues to push the boundary when it comes to launching trips in lesser-known destinations. I recently joined pioneering founders George and Martha Butterfield on a scouting trip to Romania. You can read about it here. The meals were motivation to tack on more miles. I happened to be with an older crowd as many guests were friends of the Butterfields. Ebikes were the equalizer and this crew of 60, 70, and 80-somethings put me to shame when it came to eating and drinking late into the night. Martha, with her feisty spirit, was my girl crush. She also had my back the nights I needed to Irish goodbye.

To Feel like a Pro: Trek Travel
Mallorca’s luxury hotels and beaches often steal the spotlight. But if you cycle, you know the island is the ultimate cycling training ground. Trek Travel hosts what they call a ride camp that allows guests to feel like pros as they tackle iconic climbs, like Sa Calobra and Puig Major, and visit cycling haunts (many owned by former pros) like Cycling Planet. I did the camp in 2024, and it was an incredible way to see the entire island. On our down day I hired local athlete Emanuela Venturelli (girl crush # 2) of OQ Service Course to show me the island's highlights, like the farmer’s market, while also kicking my butt in the saddle. She did just that.

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Field Notes

A quick dispatch from my recent travels.

• Lodge Love: I got to be the first journalist to report on Trinchera Reserve & Lodge, an impressive conservation-driven tourism project in southern Colorado funded by philanthropist Louis Bacon. You can read my review in Travel & Leisure.

• Spa Spotlight: I’ve noticed that spas are offering lengthier treatments, as if to say, hey your nervous system needs way more than 60 minutes of healing. The 10-suite Tributary Hotel in McMinnville, Oregon recently added a ground-floor spa and its menu of submersion rituals are a minimum of two hours long. The three-hour renewal journey felt completely indulgent. But, after a breathwork session, massage, and a body wrap made of fossilized kelp clay mined on the Oregon coast I felt just as the name promised—renewed.

• Memorable Meal: Matt Vawter, the James Beard Award-winning chef behind Breckenridge restaurants Rootstock and Radicato, has opened a bakery worth a detour. Threefold Bakery in downtown Breckenridge is a collaboration with his former colleagues, Sean and Melissa McGaughey, owners of Quail & Condor and Michelin-recognized Troubadour Bread & Bistro, both in Healdsburg, California. The breads are revelatory and the pastries, like the morning bun with sesame crème diplomat, are dangerously good. You can also find them at the Breckenridge Farmers Market each Thursday throughout summer.

  

Further reading + viewing

I like to end each newsletter with links to pieces I’ve written and compelling stories I’ve recently read, listened to, or watched. Here are some favorites.

• I’ve been loving all of the New England Patriots analogies popping up throughout the World Cup action, from Harry Kane’s Tom Brady obsession covered in the New York Times to Julian Edelman calling Norway’s Erling Haaland the European GenZ Gronk. The Athletic argues that Haaland is soccer’s most likeable superstar. What do you think?

• Maui-based big wave surfer Paige Alms (girl crush #3) was recently a guest on The Surfers Journal podcast, Soundings. She trains at my gym in Maui and is one of the coolest humans I know. She’s also the only woman to ever get barreled at Jaws. On the podcast, she talks about competing in the Eddie, why Nazaré doesn’t interest her, and why scoring the perfect wave is a waiting game.

• Outside magazine asked me to report on how to stay safe this summer amidst the unprecedented wildfires blazing across the American West and southern Europe.

• The new issue of Travel & Leisure features a beautifully written story on Maui by talented author, Julie Orringer. Reading it made me homesick.

Stay tuned…

• Next up, a Q&A with the Heather Hansman (girl crush #4), author of essential summer read Fierce Country, tips from a mountain bike coach (girl crush #5) , and a rundown of my favorite ranches in the American West. Thanks for subscribing.

  

Like many American travelers, Costa Rica was my gateway to Latin America. I fell hard for the wildlife-filled rainforests, surf-swept beaches, sky-high volcanoes, and warm people. But, after a handful of visits, I craved someplace that felt a bit more raw, wild, and undiscovered. I wanted to feel challenged and surprised. So, I ventured over the border to Nicaragua, which I had been told was like Costa Rica back in the 70s and 80s. It was the early aughts, and Nicaragua did in fact still feel off-the-radar. And the Goldilocks winds of the southwest coast make it one of the only places on the planet where you can find waves from sunrise to sunset, nearly all year-round. On that first solo trip I chased the swell from the laidback surf town of San Juan del Sur north to the sleepy community of Popoyo and instantly fell in love with the variety of waves and lack of crowds, not to mention the affordability compared to Costa Rica.

I’ve since returned to Popoyo about a half-dozen times, staying at surf-centric boutique stay Malibu Popoyo or amenity-laden Rancho Santana. But, I also began exploring beyond the surf. I met Dominic Allan, founder of Real Latin America early on in my Nicaragua travels when visiting Granada. Nicaragua’s colonial city oozes charm with its tree-filled plazas, cobblestoned streets, colorful buildings, and promenade overlooking Lake Nicaragua. I had been staying at Jicaro, an eco-lodge on a private island a short boat ride from the city when Allan convinced me to tack on a few extra days and let him play guide. I extended my trip and settled in the heart of the city at chic boutique hotel, Tribal.

Over the next few days, Allan took me to his insider spots, from a bean-to-bar chocolate shop to community-driven institution Garden Cafe, and told me about his journey from peripatetic documentary filmmaker to travel specialist helping people on all budgets discover his favorite parts of Central America. I’ve since used him to help me navigate lesser-trodden parts of Nicaragua, such as Ometepe Island in the heart of Lake Nicaragua and Little Corn Island off the country’s Caribbean coast, as well as Belize, his other destination specialty. Here, he shares the allure of Nicaragua and Belize, his unique DIY Travel offering geared toward indie travelers, and the secret seasons in both countries.

How did you end up making a home in Nicaragua?
“I used to be a documentary filmmaker and made a film here that was released in 2011. I met a girl, fell in love, came to live here, my son was born, and that was it. The world of documentary production had changed a lot, I didn’t want to be away all the time now that I was a father, so I hung up my boots and started a travel company here.”

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How did you come up with the concept for Real Latin America and how has the company evolved?
“When I first set foot in Nicaragua in 2003, crossing the border from Costa Rica, it felt like I had arrived in real Central America. I remember clearly being struck by the faces of the people, everything that surrounded me being very distinctive and making quite an impression. Nicaragua felt like the real deal. When I first thought about starting a travel company here in 2015, my original idea was to deliver real travel.

I imagined taking people traveling, going off the beaten track, really getting under the skin of the country, creating itineraries in which spontaneity thrives. That was the concept. However, we quickly fell into the high end of the market as we were asked to do more luxurious itineraries and provide a very personalized service. I did take people traveling, too. After the pandemic, things changed and we were doing more adventurous trips, and now it’s funny because I seem to have arrived back at the original idea. We now do quite a few small group trips where I take between six and 10 people traveling at a time. We call it, Nicaragua Off the Beaten Track, and this has become very popular.”

Why solely focus on Nicaragua and Belize?
“At the start it was only Nicaragua and I believed naively that we would soon be doing loads of other countries on the continent. But to be a travel specialist on the ground, you have to know your territory like the back of your hand, and I think it’s difficult to do loads of countries very well unless you delegate everywhere and I always wanted to keep our operation small.

During Nicaragua’s troubles of 2018, I expanded to include Belize, firstly because people had asked me quite a bit if I knew any good specialists there. And secondly, after traveling extensively across the whole country on a research trip, I thought it was wonderful and the polar opposite of Nicaragua. It occurred to me that in doing just these two countries, we could offer the extreme diversity of Central America. Nicaragua is mostly Spanish speaking, colonial history, volcanoes, lakes and lagoons, Pacific coast, surfing, coffee, tobacco. Both have rum, rainforest and the Caribbean, but Belize is mostly English speaking, has the most incredible barrier reef and marine life, also the Maya story with loads of ancient ruins and an extraordinary cave system. They are so eclectic, it was irresistible.”

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Can you explain the different levels of intel you share with clients and the price structure?
“We mainly do three things: We create and deliver tailored trips, which can be very varied, and these are quoted individually. We do small group trips where I guide people for two weeks, at a cost of about $5,800 per person. And we offer a service called DIY Travel, where for a one-off fee of $300, $600, or $1,200, we provide different levels of advice and local intel for independent travelers who prefer to book their own trips.”

What misconceptions do people have about Nicaragua, particularly after the political uprisings in 2018?
“It’s easy and common to have misconceptions until you actually experience each country for yourself. Nicaragua, however, suffers from false rumors and negative travel advisories that are not accurate. I actually wrote to the British Foreign Office to point this out. The U.S. travel advisory is even more misleading, and many Americans have the perception that Nicaragua is dangerous. That’s not true. Nicaragua in particular is one of the safest countries to travel in Latin America. That’s not ‘a line,’ it’s the truth. There are about 40 roundtrip flights from U.S. airports, about 6,000 people coming in and out, every week and no problems. I have lived here with a small child for over a decade. We feel very safe, and in 11 years running a travel company here, the only incident we’ve ever had was a stolen cell phone.”

Can you share an insider tip for both Nicaragua and Belize?
“I’d recommend anyone to grab the chance to visit Nicaragua, it remains refreshingly unspoiled. Good local intel makes a big difference. A lot of people want to go to Little Corn Island in the Caribbean. The best months there are February and March. In Belize, a few nights on a catamaran island hopping down the barrier reef is a holiday of a lifetime. It also negates the risk of being stuck on a beach affected by seaweed.”

What is the secret season for each country?
“For Nicaragua, high season is December to April, and the weather is sunny and dry. Rainy season, typically May through October, can be beautiful, lush, and green. We often get a hit of summer—the canicula, or the dog days of summer—in the low season from the end of July to mid-August. For Belize, if you take my advice and go sailing, I’d try to avoid high season and go from late May to June.”

The secret to a great surf trip is finding a surfing sensei, like Matt Lindsay. The Australian founder of LUXSurf Travel, a San José del Cabo-based surf guiding company, has a sixth sense when it comes to chasing swell. He’s also an expert coach who can take your riding to the next level, whether you’re a beginner or life-long wave rider. I met Matt a few years ago when I scored an assignment to explore the surf-lined coast of the eastern cape of Mexico’s Baja California peninsula. I’d spent many years surfing the peninsula’s better known Pacific coast between Cabo San Lucas and Todos Santos. This more rugged, undeveloped side with its wild donkeys and cardon cacti-studded landscape felt like the Wild West so I enlisted Matt to guide me around the breaks of La Fortuna, Nine Palms, and beyond. It turned out to be an all-time surf trip, not just because the waves were firing, but also because Matt was able to progress my surfing in a matter of days.

Matt is originally from Burleigh Heads, a wave mecca on Australia’s Gold Coast where he still spends his off season. While surfing competitively he also worked as a teacher at Palm Beach Currumbin State High, a school known for grooming future pros like Mick Fanning and Joel Parkinson through its surf excellence program established by former world champion Wayne “Rabbit” Bartholomew. Phil McNamara, the legend who coached Fanning to three world titles, took Matt under his wing as and encouraged him to get his coaching certification. “I was the youngest one in the course at 18 but I had an eye for it,” he said. “I had the mindset of a teacher and surfer.” Matt went on to work as McNamara’s assistant and eventually took over his role as the state coach for Surfing Queensland.

He’s coached pros like Japanese surfer Kanoa Igarashi and has guided celebrities and A-listers, like Rob Lowe and Mark Zuckerberg. After stints working for surf travel company Perfect Wave and pioneering luxury surf company Tropicsurf, he relocated to Los Cabos, Mexico to start his own boutique surf travel venture, LUXSurf Travel. Here, he talks about the allure of the East Cape, the magic of the Maldives, the DNA of a good surf coach, and his addiction to discovering new waves, even mellow, small ones.

“It’s just as cool to find the next dream beginner wave spot.”

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You can have the Hamptons and the Vineyard and all of Europe’s ritzy rivieras. When summer rolls around, I head home to the Jersey Shore. Growing up in the Shore town of Point Pleasant (exit 98) meant dawn-to-dusk days at the beach, riding cruiser bikes to the boardwalk to play skee-ball and watch the Thursday night fireworks, and a steady diet of lobster rolls and Hoffman’s ice cream. It didn’t hit me until I got older that I lived where most people vacationed. With each return visit as an adult, I started to feel a stronger hometown pride. The Shore had grown up—dare I say, gotten cool. It took some years to shed the Jersey Shore gym, tan, laundry image, but these days, the Shore is a string of charming beach towns each with a main street dotted with an ice cream parlor, surf shop, bookstore, and mom-and-pop boutiques. Yes, you need a badge to access the beach Memorial through Labor Day, but the beaches are pristine and guarded and you can often spot dolphins and whales out at sea.

I like to say that the Jersey Shore is the love child of the Hamptons and Rockaway Beach. You have the rock n’ roll vibes of Asbury Park—the home of Bruce Springsteen—and one town over Ocean Grove’s 150-year-old Methodist tent community (the original glamping!). You can go on roller coasters and play arcade games at Point Pleasant’s lively boardwalk or escape to the quiet, uncrowded shores of Bay Head and Mantoloking. And with Netflix opening a studio in Monmouth Beach, there’s a good chance you’ll spot a celebrity, like Tina Fey, who has been filming the Four Seasons in Ocean Grove.

When I was younger, fusty, Victorian B&Bs and vacation homes were the only lodging options. Now, I’m thrilled to see hip boutique stays popping up such as the James Bradley in Bradley Beach (you can purchase the room’s modern furnishings online) and Hotel Albatross in Ocean Grove (the hotel’s golf cart will shuttle guests to and from restaurants and concerts in neighboring Asbury Park). In Bay Head, I’m obsessed with the reimagined Bentley Inn, which just started hosting wine tastings. Owner Tess Hazen has phenomenal taste and recently opened an exceptionally curated boutique, August, a few blocks away.

The surf scene is solid and still rooted in local shops like Baja East and Brave New World in Point Pleasant and Eastern Lines in Belmar. The owners of Faherty fashion brand are surfers from Spring Lake and their new Sun & Waves market doubles as the town’s social hub and will soon stay open for dinner. You won’t find fresher seafood than the Shore. Along the Point Inlet you can watch the fishermen bring in their haul while dining on the Patio at the Shrimp Box (where I once waited tables) or Point Lobster. New Jersey Transit stops at nearly every Shore town and this summer the Seastreak ferry will shuttle between downtown New York City and Point Pleasant. And summer doesn’t end after Labor Day. September, aka “local summer” is my favorite month—no beach badge required.

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My Go-To, Equipment-Free Travel Workout

I’m constantly being asked how I keep fit on the road. I was recently on a week-long road trip and didn’t have access to a gym. Each morning, I’d follow up my run with this quick HIIT workout I adapted from Vanessa Martin, founder of New York-based SIN (Strength in Numbers) Workouts. You can do it outside or even in a shoebox of a hotel room. It typically takes me less than 20 minutes and if I’m crunched for time, I drop a set and still get my heart rate up.

Round One: 25 jumping jacks x 10 hand-release push-ups
Round Two: 15 sprinters per leg
Round Three: 20 squats x 10 sit-ups
Round Four: 12 thrusters with plank walk-ups
Round Five: 10 alternating reverse lunges x 5 burpees
Repeat four sets. Take a 60 second break between sets.

Field Notes

A quick dispatch from my recent travels.

• Lodge Love: When I first visited Captain Whidbey, on Washington’s Whidbey Island for Conde Nast Traveler I described it as an adult summer camp with a Moby Dick-meets-Moonrise Kingdom vibe. I was recently back and it hasn’t lost its quirky charm (or affordable price point). The lodge has added a wellness studio and barrel sauna and sweet rituals like a love notes and champagne hour where guests sip bubbles and write memories from their stay that will live in the lodge’s Love Notes album.

• Memorable Meal: The tiny but happening town of Carlton, Oregon is earning some serious food cred thanks to chef Kari Shaughnessy, who moved her hit restaurant Hayward here last summer. Her brilliant Kickback option on the menu allows guests to just let her cook as if she’s hosting you at a dinner party and believe me, anything she sends out is sensational and all locally sourced.

• Spa Spotlight: Cascada, a new thermal springs hotel in Portland, Oregon, might just be the future of urban wellness. Local memberships allow access to the gym and fitness classes, as well as the three wellness zones: a social pool with daybeds and red-light therapy, an outdoor garden with a pool, sauna, rain shower, and firepit, and the underground sanctuary with its cold plunge, hot tubs, sauna, steam room, and salt room. A one-of-a-kind experiential sauna is in the works and the healthy, all-day cafe, Forbidden Fruit opened the day I arrived. Special shout out to Terra Mae, the Portuguese-Japanese restaurant run by talented chef Megan Sky. Her Yamitsuki cabbage salad was one of the simplest, yet most delicious dishes I’ve tried all year.

Further reading + viewing

I like to end each newsletter with links to pieces I’ve written and compelling stories I’ve recently read, listened to, or watched. Here are some favorites.

• I’m still on a high from the Knicks championship win. This piece in the New York Times describes the moment and its impact on the city perfectly: “impossible joy.”

• I profiled Maui’s wild-haired, style master Bernd Roediger for the latest issue of Session magazine.

• I loved this piece in the New York Times about how a Costco parking lot in Los Angeles has become a skateboarding hotspot for mid-life skaters.

• I’m a big Michael Easter fan. The author of The Comfort Crisis recently launched a podcast called Two Percent, a nod to the fact when given a choice to take the stairs or an escalator, only 2% choose the stairs. My favorite episode so far discusses why adventure is the way to freedom and fulfillment.

Stay tuned…

• Next up, a Q&A with the Ellie Gray on her forthcoming lodge in Alaska, tips from a surfing sensei and notes from my recent road trip in the Pacific Northwest. Thanks for subscribing.

  

When I arrived at storied Tsaina Lodge in Valdez, Alaska for my first-ever heli-ski trip five years ago, I anticipated a testosterone-fueled week led by gruff mountain men. Instead, I was welcomed by Brooke Edwards, a tall, blonde who was rocking heart-shaped sunglasses and a unicorn horn strapped to her beanie. She pulled a pot of glitter from her purse and anointed me with a dusting. When I confided that I was nervous about whether I could hang lapping 3,000-foot lines in the Chugach with our group of “bros” she gave me a quick wink and an assured me, “you’ll be just fine.” And she was right. An epic ski day, she reminded me, wasn’t about charging the scariest lines, it was about feeling stoked to be playing in the mountains. Her guiding MO isn’t about being the best skier, alpinist, or river rat, she says. It’s about being a great educator. And that she is.

The path to being a backcountry ski guide in what’s traditionally been a male-dominated industry wasn’t easy for Brooke. And the sexism, intimidation, and judgment she faced along the way helped shape her personal journey and that of future female guides in the industry. When Edwards first moved to Girdwood, Alaska in the late 1990s she worked as a substitute teacher, waitress, landscaper and ski instructor to afford her “hippie shack” dry cabin and bills. She relied on ambassador positions with brands like Atomic and Flylow to keep her outfitted with pricey gear. Her resume includes stints guiding horsepacking, backpacking, mountaineering, skiing, rafting, sea kayaking and naturalist guiding at fancy ecotourism lodges. She has also taught for the National Outdoor Leadership School, Lesley University in Massachusetts, Alaska Pacific University, and the Alaska Avalanche School.

Brooke (aka Shiny due to her penchant for glitter, sparkly retro fashion, and unwavering positive attitude) became my unofficial outdoor sensei. After Valdez, I traveled with her on a sea to ski boat trip in Prince William Sound with Remarkable Adventures then followed her to Hokkaido to get my first taste of Japow. Over the years, she’s helped me find the confidence to navigate challenging adventures and expeditions far outside my comfort zone. But more importantly she’s reminded me that the outdoors isn’t a place to be conquered (because ultimately, it will always win). The wilderness is a place to be humbled and also a respite for when you need to heal. Here, she talks about her role as wilderness midwife, the sacrifices you make when you devote your career to guiding, and her transition from Alaska to Washington where she now works as a resiliency coach.

What was your path to a career in the outdoors?
“Growing up in the Pacific Northwest, my family was way into hiking and backpacking. My mom, in particular, adored ending hikes with a skinny dip in a high alpine lake. My first job ‘guiding’ was right after college when I got to be a camp cook on 12-day horsepack trips in the Teton wilderness. The two cowboys who ran the operation didn’t actually like people, they just wanted to ride in the mountains. So, I would ride along with the clients sharing flora and fauna knowledge and then cooking for them over an open fire. That’s when I knew I had found my calling. I went on to the Peace Corps and returned to get a master’s degree in environmental education from the world’s hippiest graduate school—an experiential traveling school bus program called the Audubon Expedition Institute. It was then that I landed my first job guiding in Alaska.”

How do you describe your guiding philosophy?
“I believe in midwifing people’s experience in the wild, helping them to integrate their experience in a meaningful way into their lives. It’s why I quickly learned that I was not cut out for high adrenaline guiding which has felt to me a little like Disneyland. I really enjoy peeling the onion of the people I am with; engaging in the deep conversations to help them unpack whatever it is they are wrestling with in their lives. It is also of primary importance to me to always be an educator, letting people know how they can help preserve our public lands and wild places so that others can have similar life changing experiences.”

What is the most rewarding aspect of guiding?
“The people! For me, seeing the wonder and awe light up in people brings tears to my eyes. The enormous impact of the wild on the human psyche has been a profound privilege to midwife for others. I remain friends with many of my clients, bringing people close in to both themselves and each other.”

Clients see you lapping powder runs and think you have a dream job. What are the tough parts of guiding that clients don’t see?
“Every career has sacrifices and this one comes with a long list. Even when guiding the wealthiest in the world, the pay is meager. Training and gear are paid for by the guide. There are no sick days, no retirement plans, no health insurance. For 30 years I said yes to the jobs that took me all over the world. Yes, it’s been magical and a dream and I wouldn’t trade all the money or a retirement plan for that. However, the biggest sacrifice of all is the loss of life. I have lost so many colleagues and friends over the years. There’s a statistic in the snow professions that 1 in 40 die on the job. I can speak that my experience of this is true. No one told me that one of the side effects of such loss could be a nervous system injury. I have spent years healing my nervous system and learning how to return to the wilds that heal me without being solely traumatized by them.”

The trauma you have experienced in the wild spurred your transition to this next chapter in your guiding career? Was there a particular moment when you realized I need to step away from ski guiding and become a different type of educator?
“The moment was a long time coming. There aren’t that many old guides. The body gets injured, the nervous system gets injured, the physical and emotional packs get heavier. The last couple of years were heavy with loss, trauma and acute nervous system including a near miss murder by schizophrenic on the job in Alaska. When I filed a workers’ comp claim for my PTSD that disabled me from guiding, I was told that ‘well, you weren’t murdered, so you are fine.’ I used this last insult to injury as the catalyst to finally leave Alaska and transition my career from guiding people in the external wilderness to a career of guiding people through their internal wilderness. I moved to Washington State to be near my family and partner and pivoted to being a resiliency coach.”

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What types of people are you working with as a resiliency coach?
“All of my clients who have suffered deep trauma also work in conjunction with a therapist. Where coaching adds another layer is that yes, we go over the past in order to understand the present so that we can build scaffolding toward the future. It’s a very unique role and my approach is very trauma informed borrowing many modalities from the different healing arts to custom curate a coaching plan that works for that individual. I work with guides, ski patrollers, professional athletes mainly in the snow industry, but it turns out, we all need resiliency these days, so lately my clientele has been expanding to meet the greater need. I also have started utilizing my extensive background in leadership and management to coach corporate leaders as well.

Because most folks are unfamiliar with coaching, I often will gift people a session after a few introductory discovery calls so that they can have an experience of my particular style and flavor. I welcome the conversation with anyone regardless of if they become clients or not. Because I work with so many in the industry who are suffering large nervous system injuries, I offer my services on a sliding scale.”

DETAILS: You can follow Brooke’s adventures or connect with her about coaching via Instagram @wildworldwanderings , her website, www.wildworldwanderings.com, or shoot her an email at brookeshinyedwards@gmail.com. Listen to her podcast, the Avalanche Hour, especially her episode Grief’s Gift of Gratitude with Izzy Davis.

Over the weekend, I attended the Outside Days Festival in Denver. One of the talks that really resonated with me was themed the Outdoor Prescription. U.S. Senator Michael Bennet, health journalist Catherine Price, and Boyz N The Wood co-found CJ Goulding discussed health, access, and public policy and the myriads of mental and physical benefits we get from being outdoors. Senator Bennet pointed out how we rarely see kids playing in parks anymore. The conversation made me think of the importance of greenways.

Of all of the greenway projects underway in America, the East Coast Greenway is by far the most ambitious. Back in 1991, city planners from Boston, New York, and Washington, D.C., came together with the idea of connecting their independent greenways. That vision grew to become the East Coast Greenway, a multi-purpose trail that would connect Calais, Maine to Key West, Florida. The goal: Encourage non-motorized travel for work and recreation. More than three decades in the making, 65 percent of the Greenway is completed or in advanced stages of development. It’s already become one of America’s most visited parks, with an estimated 50 million cyclists and pedestrians using the greenway annually.

Dennis Markatos-Soriano, Executive Director of the East Coast Greenway Alliance, chatted with me about how the trail is unifying communities, helping to restore landscapes, and creating “havens of health” in urban areas.

The East Coast Greenway has been a long-term vision that has been completed in segments rather than a linear, north-to-south construction. What is the current state of the greenway?
“To date, we’ve completed more than 1,100 traffic-free miles of paved, dirt, and gravel paths connected by the interim route on roadways. Whenever possible, the interim route is located on low-traffic roadways; however, high-stress segments do exist. Our online mapping tool clearly identifies these high-stress, on-road portions of the route and when possible, suggests alternate routes.

We saw a huge boost in use during the Covid pandemic and that helped us obtain a record $550 million in public investment in 2021. In 2024, 11 segments totaling more than 15 miles in five states earned East Coast Greenway designation. And despite federal funding cuts, we approved more than 15 miles of traffic-free trail segments across six states and Washington, D.C. in 2025. We’ve set an audacious goal of doubling annual users to 100 million by 2030. I would love to see the entire Greenway completed by 2040.”

Why was it important for you to have the East Coast Greenway connect both urban and rural areas?
“By attracting visitors to local towns and cities along the route, the East Coast Greenway boosts local economies through sustainable tourism. Cyclists using the trail support local businesses, fostering economic growth without the environmental footprint of motorized tourism. It’s also a way for people to commute to both work and even kids to get to school. We’ve conducted various impact studies that underscore the long-term benefits. For example, a March 2019 study on the impact of the Delaware River Watershed corridor of the East Coast Greenway estimated that when completed, that segment could bring $3 billion in public health, environmental, and economic benefits to the greater Philadelphia region.”

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How have you seen the East Coast Greenway impact communities?
“We call the Greenway ‘miles of smiles’ for a reason. It really can change lives. In Durham, N.C. we started a Greenway Bike Bus for my son’s elementary school this year along the American Tobacco Trail segment of the East Coast Greenway. We have meet ups along the path to school and parents ride along with the kids. One day we had 65 kids participate. Even in winter we had up to 15 kids riding. It’s a way for the kids to get the wiggles out so they can sit down and focus in school.”

How have you seen the East Coast Greenway transform the environments around the trail segments, particularly in urban areas?
“When we build greenways, we rebuild and restore ecosystems. In city after city, we’re turning dumping grounds and forgotten landscapes into corridors of connection for people and nature. Two great examples of this are the Cramer Hill Waterfront Park in Camden, New Jersey and the Cobbs Creek Trail in Southwest Philadelphia. Both were developed on reclaimed landfill sites. In both the Bronx River and Delaware River water quality improved after the East Coast Greenway was built. We’re seeing freshwater mussels in the Delaware River for the first time in decades and eels and beavers returning to the Bronx River. And a 2019 study showed the greenway protected 9,900 acres of land and has led to $39,340,000 in environmental benefits around the Delaware River Watershed.

Wilmington’s Riverwalk and the Jack Markell Trail in Delaware reflect this same vision, converting former industrial areas into inviting pathways and parks. In Claymont, Delaware, an old steel mill site is evolving into a greenway, train station and mixed-use development with vegetated buffers to enhance ecological health. I really think we will be better stewards if we are connected to land. Seeing the land restore gives me a lot of hope.”

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What completed segments are you most excited about?
“Last May, the Christian to Crescent Trail Connector in Philadelphia was one of the biggest openings in our history. The connector is a half mile of boardwalk, paved trail and a 650-foot cable-stayed pedestrian bridge that links the Schuylkill Banks portion of the Schuylkill River Trail with the Grays Ferry Crescent Trail, creating 3.7 miles of continuous East Coast Greenway through Center City. We’re nearly finished construction on another bridge across the Schuylkill to connect Bartram’s Garden, the Heinz Wildlife Refuge, and communities of Southwest Philly to downtown by bike and by foot via the Greenway. The Alliance will be celebrating America’s 250th birthday with a 17.76-mile walk and bike ride, and a 76-mile biking itinerary with two crossings of the Delaware River, and other experiences in Philadelphia.

We’ve seen transformational progress in New England, too. The 400-mile route between New Haven, Conn., Providence R.I., Boston, Mass., Portsmouth, N.H., and Portland, Maine is primed to become one of our nation's top bike touring destinations. And the Boston-to-Cape Cod Loop is a great example of one of the Greenways lower-emission, multi-modal adventure offerings. The 265-mile trip starts and finishes in Boston and includes a ferry ride from Provincetown to Boston and includes the Blackstone River Bikeway, which has re-greened some of America’s oldest mills. The Blackstone River Bikeway from Woonsocket to Lincoln, Rhode Island, is part of the ‘cradle of the Industrial Revolution’ where riders can enjoy views of historic mills and factories, including the historic Slater Mill in Pawtucket.”

How can people plan a cycling trip on the East Coast Greenway?
“I think we’ve had around 100 people complete the entire route. It takes, on average, two to four months, depending on how many miles you want to tackle in a day. We’ve also had people walk the entire route. I suggest people tackle it by state or segments within a region. Our web site has a mapping tool and suggested segments and itineraries that vary in distance and elevation gain.

On Saturday, June 27, we have an organized Ride the State event in Connecticut that is a fully-supported, 67-mile ride from New Haven to Hartford along mostly flat, paved trails, including newly completed sections of the Greenway in Simsbury and Bloomfield, as well as key gaps still to be completed to connect Connecticut’s 204-mile Greenway.”

The East Coast Greenway has shown how it unifies communities. How do you think it can help unify us as a country?
“I like to say the East Coast Greenway is the infrastructure of democracy. It is a public space welcoming to everyone. It encourages camaraderie and connection. The Greenway traces our country’s history, traveling through Independence Hall in Philadelphia, the Freedom Trail in Boston, and the Gullah Geechee Cultural Heritage Corridor in the coastal Southeast. It also showcases each state’s natural and cultural riches. You can cycle past pines in Maine and palm trees in Florida. You can taste the best blueberry pie in Maine and then the best slice of key lime pie in Key West. The Greenway connects the colorful patchwork of states that make up a beautiful part of America.”

Summer is unofficially underway. I’m a beach girl at heart, but I’ve come love lake life…particularly in Alaska during the unicorn month of June. For five short weeks, Tordrillo Mountain Lodge runs its one-of-a-kind Kings & Corn program. With 20-plus hours of daylight, it’s possible to heli-ski buttery corn snow in the morning, angle for king salmon in the afternoon, and e-foil, SUP, and wake-surf all evening. I call it the ultimate adventure trifecta. It’s been on my wish-list for 15 years and I finally experienced it last summer. My only complaint: Even if you’re exhausted, you don’t want to sleep because there’s always more fun to be had.

TML was founded by three friends: Olympic skier Tommy Moe, Alaska heli-ski pioneer Mike Overcast, and fishing fanatic and guide Mike Rheam. The lodge is set on the banks of Judd Lake, and the team is constantly making upgrades, like this year’s addition of an impressive new wellness center. (Trust me, you’ll appreciate the sauna after a chilly surf session). Yes, the week is pricey, but it is full of pinch me moments, like watching a mama bear and her cubs run across a mountain ridge as you snowboard right below or surfing behind the lodge’s state-of-the-art MasterCraft boat only to turn and see a float plane take off behind you. If there is one trip that is worth the splurge, it’s Kings & Corns.

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Notes from Namibia

I’m just back from an incredible week in Damaraland, Namibia with Ultimate Earth. Formerly known as Ultimate Safaris, this Namibian owned and operated brand is a shining example of a company that is doing things right. I got a behind-the-scenes look at the operations as well as the important research and conservation initiatives Ultimate Earth is supporting. The brand recently introduced a series of conservation safaris that allow guests to shadow researchers, such as giraffe expert Dr. Julian Fennessy and Dr. Flip Sander, a specialist in the desert-adapted lion. I previewed the new cheetah conservation program with respected guide Jason Nott. This wasn’t your typical ogle wildlife through binos safari. And I loved every minute of it. We were on the ground walking through riverbeds in search of marking trees where we might set up cameras. We unraveled a murder mystery of a dead cheetah (a leopard did the killing while a hyena handled the clean up). And we gathered a lot of cheetah dung to bait traps that would capture a cat so it could be collared and monitored.

What impressed me most was Ultimate Earth’s attention to detail. How a company treats its team is everything. I knew the company was special from the moment my driver picked me up at the airport. He raved about how much he loved working for the company, and I could tell it was genuine. Every staff member remembered not only my name, but how I liked my coffee in the morning and my glass of Chenin Blanc at sundown. At Onduli Ridge and Onduli Enclave staff have their own gym, hang space, and kitchen and guides stay in the same spacious tents that guests stay in at sister property, Camp Doros.

Sustainability is taken into consideration every step of the way. Instead of air conditioning, rooms at Onduli Ridge stay cool via climate-controlled Evening Breeze systems in the beds. And the water in the wood-fired hot tub on my deck at Onduli Enclave gets recycled back into the watering hole in front of the property; and Namibian bushbloks—processed encroaching bush made into compact fuel logs—were used to heat the tub. This wasn’t a safari where you tick off hundreds of wildlife sightings. The team, particularly Jason, challenged me to slow down, to think, to ask questions. Our reward was witnessing moments that can only happen when you aren’t rushed, like watching a giraffe go into labor, or listening to the rumble of an elephant’s stomach. Those memories are far more impactful than 100 wildlife photos.

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Field Notes

A quick dispatch from my recent travels.

• Lodge Love + a Worthy Detour: When I visit big cities, I love to tack on detours to places locals escape on weekends or for holidays. After the We are Africa conference, I spent a few days in the seaside village of Glencairn at the newly opened Tintswalo Summer House. The boutique hotel oozes seashore-inspired whimsy with its quirky themed rooms decorated in coral wallpaper or lobster prints. The staff made me feel like I was a guest at their beach house and doted on me with addictive homemade madeleines and other treats. And the tiny village of Glencairn is a gem. Steps from the hotel you’ll find a freediving shop and eat.surf.yoga, a family-run health food cafe, surf school, and yoga studio. And a great surf beach and tidal pools are just across the street.

• Memorable Meal: During a recent layover in Panama City, I had a stellar meal at Maito. Chef Mario Castrellón has helped put Panamanian ingredients on the culinary map and sources sustainable products from indigenous communities. The black rice studded with local shellfish was a standout, as were the bite-sized pork croquettes. And if you like coffee, don’t miss the Geisha Old Fashioned.

• Spa Spotlight: I’ve had the pleasure of visiting Spier Wine Farm in Stellenbosch, South Africa at least a half dozen times. So, I was pleasantly surprised to return and discover the property had received a major renovation that has transformed it from a conference-focused hotel to a seriously luxurious Winelands getaway. The revamp downsized the number of rooms and used the extra space to add a dreamy new spa and bathhouse. The signature, three-hour bathing ritual cured my jetlag. Spier’s resident phytotherapist crafts therapeutic soaks from gotu kola, rooibus, Cape rose, and other herbs that leave both muscles and mind completely relaxed.

Further reading + viewing

I like to end each newsletter with links to pieces I’ve written and compelling stories I’ve recently read, listened to, or watched. Here are some favorites.

• The Outside Days Festival kicks off in Denver Friday, May 29 and runs through May 31. Outside asked me to interview some of the guest speakers, including Radiohead guitarist Ed O’Brien, who just dropped his second solo album, Blue Morpho, and Emmett Malloy, director of the new Jack Johnson biopic, SURFILMUSIC.

• SURFER magazine interviewed big wave surfer Andrew Cotton and his high-performance trainer to find out what five minutes in ice water does to your brain.

• I’m a big fan of Town & Country’s Snob’s Guide series. The latest installment distills the best of the best in Costa Rica.

Stay tuned…

• Next up, a Q&A with the Executive Director of the East Coast Greenway, dispatches from the Outside Days Festival, and tips for choosing the right cycling vacation. Thanks for subscribing.

  

I’ve traveled the world, but it was only last year that I finally explored some of America’s most cherished places, like the Grand Canyon and Zion National Park. Conde Nast Traveler had sent me on assignment with EXP Journeys, a tour operator specializing in bespoke, high-touch adventure trips. The landscapes were otherworldly. The mobile camp was over-the-top comfortable. But it was the guides who took the experience to the next level.

They navigated our group away from the crowds at incredibly popular parks and monuments, pivoted plans seamlessly based on our group’s interests, but most of all, they made us think and feel. When weather derailed our canyoneering plans, they pivoted us to the Grand Canyon’s North Rim, which sees just 10 percent of the park’s visitors. I expected a bottleneck at Cape Royal viewpoint, but we were alone looking at Angels Window natural arch. As I reached for my camera, our guide, Georgia native Maxie Johnson, asked in his southern drawl for us to pause and recognize that more than ten Native American tribes called this land home. “This is not ours,” he said, choked with emotion. “This belonged to them. This is sacred land.” I suddenly had a whole new perspective and appreciation for where I was standing.

Maxie is proof that it’s never too late to change paths and follow your passion. After his first semester of law school, he wanted to drop out but having already paid tuition, he committed to what he started. He went on to pursue a law career but never felt fulfilled. Living in Denver, he sought solace in the mountains. “My friend and I had grand aspirations to climb all of the 14ers,” he said. “As we started exploring more difficult routes - routes that taught us about frostbite and how protruding ledges can interrupt near fatal falls - I thought, one of us should have some sort of training.”

He signed up for a two-week wilderness first responder course with the National Outdoor Leadership School, or “NOLS.” “Those were the most transformative weeks of my life,” he recalled. “I felt like I had found my people.” After a frustrating day at work, he impulsively sent his resume to an outdoor nonprofit in West Virginia that was looking to hire a guide to lead backpacking trips for middle and high schoolers. “It sounded a lot better than what I was doing in that moment,” he said. Within a week the hiring coordinator called, and he became what he calls a “real world dropout.” Here, he talks about changing careers mid-life, the 5-million-person test, and his most rewarding moments as a guide.

What did you take away from that first NOLS course?
“Most of the group were mostly in their early 20s - fresh out of college and looking to launch a career in the guide industry. A smattering were people in their early 60s who wanted to start guiding as a hobby in retirement. I was in my mid-30s, a disgruntled at

torney looking to brush up on my outdoor skills. The days were filled with cliff jumping, climbing, hiking, and learning how to treat snakebites. I didn’t want those two weeks to end. I knew this is what I wanted to be doing.”

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I have traveled to Africa more than 20 times and still haven’t made my way to some of the best-known safari destinations, like Kenya and Tanzania. I am sure the Great Migration is great, but I am more interested in visiting wilder, less touristed frontiers of countries like Madagascar and Ethiopia. When I met Chris Roche at the We are Africa conference a few years ago, I knew I’d found a kindred spirit. Roche, an alum of Wilderness, had just helped launch Wild Expeditions Africa, a collective of owner-run safari camps and expeditions operating in remote parts of Africa. He was surprised to learn that I’d already visited the collective’s founding properties: Lale’s Camp in Ethiopia’s Lower Omo Valley, Camp Hwange in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park, and Masoala Forest Lodge in Madagascar.

Since then, Wild Expeditions has added two additional camps, including a second four-room camp, Muddy Teak, in Hwange National Park and Karangoma in the northeastern arm of the Okavango Delta. Two years ago, Chris invited me to the Delta for the opening of Karangoma. The camp’s unique location between the waters of the Okavango and the vast northern woodlands means that it has a spectacularly diverse array of habitats, and the lack of visitors means the wildlife is, well, really wild.

It takes guts and passion to invest in these lesser known, off-the-beaten-path locations. Often the little guys go in and take the risks to see if a destination can work for tourism. If they succeed, the heavy hitters follow. I deeply admire people like Chris who are willing to lay the groundwork and support camps in these unconventional destinations. Here, he shares insights from his recent trip to Gorongosa National Park in Mozambique, possibilities for Angola, and the operators helping to provide an antidote to overtourism.

What inspired Wild Expeditions and how is the experience at your camps unique?
“We wanted to offer an alternative Africa experience – one that went beyond the traditional savannah safari destinations and considered less established destinations like Ethiopia and Madagascar desperately in need of conservation funding that can be generated by responsible tourism. Many businesses open where they see commercial opportunity and then think about the conservation need in the area. We look for a conservation need and then see if we can put in a viable commercial business. Camps in our collective are unpretentious. Everyone says authentic but I don’t even know what that means anymore. What we provide is a feeling of connectedness and that’s hard to market. One client said we go beyond the infinity pool and strip back the layers of luxury to take guests closer to the actual experience.

We strip back the unnecessary separation (brick and mortar for example) between the guest and nature and even between the guest and our staff. Guests should feel free to take off their shoes and get their feet dusty. Even though we offer game drives, we want people to walk on the ground rather than drive in an elaborate vehicle. We want them to hear the call of a hyena, not the whir of the AC. At day’s end, we want them sit by the fire under the stars and have conversations about conservation, culture and rural communities with our staff and other guests.

In this global epidemic of loneliness, I believe hospitality needs to have warmth, soul, and connection. A stay at one of our camps should feel like you’re being welcomed into a friend’s home. And that friend wants to share what they love. If we’re having dinner and we hear something, we’ll ask if the guests want to go find it. The other night we were on a night drive in Hwange and we spotted an aardvark and the guide had the guests lie on the ground to watch its movements. We believe flexibility and spontaneity allows for moments of serendipity and lasting memories.”

Why don’t we see bigger outfitters entering these untapped markets?
“The risk is high. The first person in has to subsidize access and you can lose a lot of money. You have to put a lot of capital into a destination, pay the school fees, build a solid infrastructure, and then gamble that people will actually come. If you succeed, everyone else follows and benefits. When someone goes in first you know it’s a labor of love.”

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These offbeat Africa destinations aren’t for everyone. Who is the right traveler for a Wild Expeditions property?
“We are not one size fits all. I think it is the traveler that has fallen in love with natural ecosystems and who wants to keep discovering new ones. They’ve seen the Big Five and trekked with the gorillas. They’ve visited the Pantanal in South America and the Outback in Australia and the cloud forests of Ecuador. I think more and more people have entered this vortex of fascination with the natural world through seeing the charismatic Big Five on safari and then graduate to the more nuanced niche experiences that we offer.

Everyone gets excited about the Galapagos. It’s a laboratory of evolution and it’s incredible, but Madagascar is next level. I think we all grew up with idea of lemurs. You can only find them in Madagascar—some 120 different species. And you can experience them in so many ecosystems. Take the sifaka. You can observe it in the dry spiny forest, the rainforest and the tsingy, each ecosystem with a different sifaka species slightly different from the last.”

What are your thoughts on the traditional sundowner ritual?
“I like a gin and tonic as much as the next person, but I find sundowners a distraction. I’d much rather be looking for wildlife.”

What about the trend of wellness in the wild?
“The wellness in the bush trend feels so ironic. Going into the bush has always been therapeutic. Wellness is not adding a cold plunge that the camp has to generate (energy-expensive) ice for. It’s walking in nature without the distraction of a screen. It’s simple.”

Can you share a bit about your newest addition, Muddy Teak?
“Muddy Teak is in the same private concession as Camp Hwange in Zimbabwe. It opened last year and is an exclusive-use camp with just four tents. This is subjective, but I believe luxury isn’t a Louis Vuitton bag. It’s the freedom of time and space and autonomy. At Muddy Teak, you’re not constrained to a schedule or itinerary. You can skip the morning game drive or decide to eat lunch out in the bush or stay up watching the animals that gather around the camp’s water hole. You are on your own schedule and don’t have to share it with anyone except who you choose.”

What should people consider when planning a wilderness-based trip to Africa?
“People have become distracted by the tents and lodges. If you want to go skiing, you don’t base your trip around the lodge. You find out if the destination has good powder in February and after that find the accommodations. Think about what you want to see and learn and how you want to experience it. Do you want to see a new species? Do you want to be removed from people? Do you want an experience that will create a closer connection to the wild? Do you want an experience that will make a difference to your life, and the lives of the community you visit? And don’t underestimate the importance of a good guide. The right guide brings a destination to life.”

What destinations in Africa are you excited about right now?
“I’m just back from Gorongosa National Park in Mozambique and it’s one of the best conservation projects on the continent. It was an absolute treat to visit. Lengue Luiana National Park in Angola will see the opening of Luiana Plains Expedition Camp later this year. That’s a 7-million-hectare corner of Angola that at the moment has around 50 lions and could have up to 3,000. That would increase the African lion population by 10% and would create another important lion conservation area. I see this as one of the most exciting scale opportunities for savannah conservation on the continent, whether for lions, giraffes, or elephants. There aren’t that many areas of that scale that aren’t densely populated. Why would Angola protect it from mining, rice irrigation, deforestation, and other threats if they don’t have a monetary incentive. Tourism has an opportunity to step up and created a different return for natural capital.”

Who do you think are the operators taking the risks and embracing the soul of safari?
“Simon Byron from Beagle Expeditions in Botswana. Edd Tucker Brown at Madagascar Classic Collection. Rubert Finch Hatton of Nomad Tanzania has an interesting new expedition camp, Charlie, in relatively new Ugalla River National Park. Machaba Safaris operate in Zimbabwe, Botswana, and they’re opening a new camp in Gabon. Expeditions Ducret runs a boat expedition on the Congo River. And in Kenya, family-owned Kalepo Camp and Campi ya Kanzi are making positive contributions, and Mohanjeet Brar at Porini Camps is taking an interesting approach to expanding the Mara ecosystem through community conservancies. Also check out Gorongosa Safaris in Mozambique. Operations like this are the overtourism antidote in Africa.”

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I’ve just arrived in Cape Town for the We are Africa conference, a gathering of the continent’s best-of-the-best travel brands, conservationists, and storytellers. Day one kicked off with talks from thought leaders on topics ranging from navigating AI automation to efforts to revive the white rhino population in Kruger National Park. Casey van Embden of Timeless Africa Safaris reminded agents that smart pre-trip conversations can influence whether their clients come home with Instagram pics or something far more meaningful. And Sarah Dusek, co-founder and CEO of Few & Far Luvhondo in South Africa raised the question: “How do we put a forgotten ecosystem on the map and restore it?”

Keynote speaker, Dr. Steve Boyes, a South African conservationist and National Geographic Explorer, is a shining example of how we can do just that. In 2015, he launched the National Geographic Okavango Wilderness Project, a multi-year effort aimed at exploring and protecting the little-known wilderness of the Angolan highlands that provides over 95 percent of the water that sustains the Okavango Delta and the biodiversity of the greater Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area. Angola is already on my travel wish list, and I think as more camps open in the coming years (look out for the debut of Luiana Plains Expedition Camp this June), we’ll see more travelers turning an eye to this overlooked gem of a wilderness area.

Dr. Boyes cut his teeth working in camps and doing field research in Botswana’s Okavango Delta. Take away the waters that flow from the semi-arid highlands of Angola, through Namibia and into Botswana, and the UNESCO-listed inland wetland would cease to exist. It’s no wonder he’s become fixated with protecting the water source.

The Delta is truly one of Mother Nature’s miracles. Rains that fall in Angola during the previous wet season, push some 2.5 trillion gallons of water down the Okavango River in June, creating a lush oasis-like network of lagoons, channels, and palm islands. Unlike Angola, Botswana is high on the tourist radar, with luxury camps charging upwards of $4,500 per person, per night. The lodges and camps have gotten so flashy they almost eclipse the wildlife, with travelers’ Insta feeds showing off copper soaking tubs, private plunge pools, and palatial, air-conditioned tents with parquet flooring and leather furnishings.

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Shouldn’t the allure of the safari experience be the outdoors, rather than the indoors? I wonder if the layers of comfort are eroding the soul of the safari? Dr. Boyes commented on how despite the many hardships of his time spent in Angola, he longs to return. “We need the wilderness to reconnect with who we are,” he told the audience. I agree.

Like many travelers, the motivation for my first safari was to see wildlife, primarily charismatic megafauna. But that initial experience in the South African bush ignited something deep within me. I felt a special connection to the land; the lasting thrill wasn’t from spotting an elephant or lion (as thrilling as that is) but from moving in a landscape one with them and falling asleep to the sounds of the wilderness.

When I had the opportunity to finally travel to Botswana’s Okavango Delta, I knew I had to choose my experience carefully. There were plenty of over-the-top safari camps, but I was drawn to the old-school nature and remote location of Kweene Trails by Beagle Expeditions. This family-run, seasonal mobile camp operated by Botswana native Simon Byron and his wife Marleen is my is my idea of luxury in the wild. The company’s two, no-frills fly camps are located on 74,000 acres in a spectacularly wild corner of the western Okavango Delta accessible only to Kweene Trails guests and only via helicopter. It doesn’t get more exclusive.

Depending on the season, guests walk, drive, or glide along the waterways in a mokoro (or some combination of all three) to travel between camps. I was traveling with a group of type 2 fun-minded travelers who all thoroughly embraced the nine-mile trek between the camps. Simon and head guide Ace Gabanakitso accompanied us over four days in the bush. Walking in the wild jolts you to life. It’s a primal experience that turns every sense on hyper alert.

I marveled at Ace’s ability to subtly steer our path so the air wouldn’t pick up our scent and alert potential predators. When the sun was high mid-afternoon, we’d stop for leisurely picnics, kick off our shoes to air out our dirty feet, and nap beneath the shade of a sausage tree. It felt so indulgent to sit for hours observing a herd of zebra in the distance or listening to the sounds of a rutting impala.

Simon and Marleen also operate Okavango Gin distillery and the G&Ts we sipped during sundowners showcased The Sentinel, the distillery’s small-batch blend infused with locally foraged botanicals. At night, the lack of wi-fi and simplicity of the camps ensured we did exactly what you’re supposed to do when you travel—connect. We shared stories around the campfire and over fabulous meals of fresh salads and grilled game meat prepared by talented chef Mwinga. We admired the star-spangled sky and stayed up late in awe of the massive elephants just a few hundred feet from us at a watering hole.

Sleeping on a comfy bedroll under a spacious Meru tent allowed the sounds of the bush to be both my evening lullaby and morning alarm. When we returned to Maun, I felt disoriented being back in civilization. We hadn’t seen another human—or screen or news headline—the entire four-day trip. I appreciate modern comforts and technology, but trips like this are an important reminder that I’m still wild at heart.

Field Notes

A quick dispatch from my recent travels.

• Lodge Love: Tucked away on the Western Cape just 30 minutes from Cape Town, the Alexander Estate is a dreamy new property with vineyard and ocean views. There are plenty of ways to offset the wine tastings, which you won’t want to miss (I brought home a case of the flagship Susara 2024 white blend). Wellness programming is a priority here. Guests can choose from a roster of activities like sunrise yoga sessions, e-biking, and custom surf excursions. The spa boasts a sauna and steam for detoxing, and I highly recommend the Africology rooibos & lavender clay wrap treatment. Private heated plunge pools make the spa suites worth the splurge.

  Memorable Meal: I was just back home on the Jersey Shore and had a stellar meal at Judy & Harry’s in the St. Laurent Social Club in Asbury Park. It’s no surprise Viana received a James Beard Award nomination this year. His roast chicken Savoy—an homage to Jersey’s old-school Italian haunt, the Belmont Tavern—is sensational and the wine and cocktail program raise the bar for the Shore.

• Spa Spotlight: Earlier this year, Tordillo Mountain Lodge in Alaska debuted a new 2,400 square-foot wellness center complete with massage therapy rooms designed with Shou Sugi Ban walls and a made-to-order juice bar. This summer, the lodge will host its first-ever wellness retreats. Geared to type 2 travelers, the four-night immersions feature glacier hikes, wildcrafting, cold plunging, and sessions in a custom-built AlpenSauna perched on the remote Triumvirate Glacier.

Further reading + viewing

I like to end each newsletter with links to pieces I’ve written and compelling stories I’ve recently read, listened to, or watched. Here are some favorites.

• I pondered the merits of heli-hiking for a feature in the May issue of Bloomberg Pursuits. I’m curious if you think it’s a cheat to the top or a smart, albeit pricey, way to access more remote patches of wilderness?

• Conde Nast Traveler asked me to report on the biggest trends in sustainable travel. My findings underscored that travel really can have a positive impact.

• This piece in the Economist examines who to save the safari while keeping the needs of tourists, locals, and wildlife in mind.

• I profiled “adventure capitalist” Michael B. Schwab for the May issue of Robb Report and reported on his latest ventures, including NIHI Rote and the forthcoming Cabo Real Surf Club.

Stay tuned…

• Next up, a Q&A with Chris Roche, co-founder of Wild Expeditions, my cheat sheet to Cape Town, and a dispatch from Namibia. Thanks for subscribing.

  

I learned to snowboard as a teenager by following my brother around the mountain. I had no technique or style. I relied on grit and stubbornness. I’m fast, and can get down nearly any terrain, but let’s just say it isn’t always pretty. As I’ve gotten older, I’ve tried to undo my bad habits and improve my skills by working with an instructor at least once a season. A few years ago, I got to ride Sun Valley Resort in Idaho on a powder day with instructor and guide Cody Catherall. He took me to the best pow stashes on the mountain and gave me some invaluable technique tips. Then at lunch, we geeked out on fly fishing, his first love. Catherall guides anglers on the waters of Sun Valley, but also around the world. Here, he explains the art of float tubing, his Valhalla of fly fishing, and where to head on a powder day at Sun Valley Resort.

How were you introduced to the outdoors and fly fishing?
“I grew up just outside of Chicago. My family would spend summers at a cabin in Wisconsin and that’s where I got into fishing. Those summers were very influential for me. I went to college at the University of Oregon and that’s where fly fishing took hold and I heard about Sun Valley.”

Did you move to Sun Valley intending to be a guide?
“I planned to work for a summer at a fly shop before I pursued a more traditional career path. I started teachings fly fishing camps for kids. Idaho still has a bit of wild going on and that appealed to me.”

What makes fishing in Idaho different from other parts of the West?
“It’s diversity of fisheries. You have spring creeks, freestone streams, tailwaters all in close proximity to Sun Valley. The amount of river miles versus angling pressure is definitely better than many destinations like Colorado or Montana. It’s a very healthy ecosystem; probably one of the overall healthier ecosystems left in the Northwest. On our local rivers, you’re angling for wild trout—rainbow, brown, cutthroat, bull. That’s not to say there aren’t other species, but that’s the draw.”

What the heck is float tubing?
“The river bed of the Silver Creek fishery is a mix of gravel and silt, which can be difficult to wade in so we use these float tubes, like you’d use on a lazy river, and it allows you to access fish you couldn’t get to on foot. I think walk-and-wade trips are great for beginners as the guide can’t be as involved if he’s rowing a boat. But floating a boat allows you to see a ton of water and the fact that the boat is moving assist with your drifts.”

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I’ll be the first to admit, I often overlook the natural treasures in my own backyard. I’ve traveled to far corners of the world, yet there’s so much to be explored right at home. It often takes a friend from another country to remind me of the incredible landscapes and rich cultural experiences just a short drive away. My British friend, Eliza, recently talked me into taking an RV trip around the Pacific Northwest this summer. I immediately called Sam Highley, the founder of All Roads North, a company that specializes in custom, high-end U.S. road trips. Highley is also a Brit. He relocated to New England for his wife’s job and was blown away by the diversity of the U.S. He saw an opportunity to elevate the classic, all American road trip experience and in 2014 launched All Roads North. Now based in California, Highley spends much of the year exploring the country. Here, he shares the U.S. hotel and lodge openings he’s most anticipating, how he delivers unique experiences even in the busiest national parks, and why the American South deserves more attention from travelers.

How has All Roads North evolved over the years? Have you seen a shift in what travelers are looking for in a road trip?
“When we launched, we were creating itineraries that linked five-star properties. So we’d draw a line from Amangiri in Utah to Dunton Hot Springs in Colorado to Amangani in Wyoming. But there are so many interesting places in between. We’ve taken great care and time to find small, family run B&Bs and boutique lodges that we can pair with those higher-end stays. We have found that people want properties that have character and personality. Even luxury properties can start to feel cookie cutter, replicated multiple times across a brand. Travelers want more than luxury bells and whistles within four walls. They are looking for a journey…and experience. For example, we just had one client book a luxury ranch vacation but they paired it with a truly wild pack trip. Those kinds of itineraries are becoming more common.”

How often are you on the road seeking out new experiences and lodges?
“Every year we try to bite off a couple of recce trips. I just got back from Vermejo, Ted Turner’s reserve in New Mexico. We really try to look beyond the obvious. It’s the place, but also the people, we get excited about and often it’s the story behind a property that makes it right for our clients.”

Amangiri really proved that you can do luxury in the U.S. in a remote, wilderness setting. What new or forthcoming five-star properties are you excited about?
“Amangiri is still the leader in singular destination properties. They really set the bar. Utah’s luxury lodging options are about to explode. Abercrombie & Kent has plans for A&K Sanctuary in Moab, Utah and Six Senses has announced Camp Korongo, an Amangiri-esque property in Kanab, Utah. It’s exciting to see some of the big, high-end brands coming to the U.S. for the first time like One & Only, which recently opened in Big Sky, Montana.

I’m also seeing more high-end ranch stays. Legacy family ranches are being sold to financiers and tech money and these new owners are transforming the propertie into high-end guest ranches. I was really impressed by Alpine Falls Ranch in western Montana and hedge fund manager Louis Bacon recently took over Trinchera Ranch in Colorado and there is an incredible conservation story behind that property.”

Is the glamping trend here to stay? How do you weave it into your itineraries?
“It’s not going away and for the right client, especially families, a few nights glamping with an outfit like Under Canvas can be a fun option. And sometimes it’s the best option. Under Canvas has been really good at choosing national park-adjacent locations, like West Yellowstone, where there aren’t alternative accommodations. I see more and more clients want a little roughing it in the middle of their trip and then they like to end with a luxury stay. You really feel you earned it.”

What part of the U.S. are you getting the most requests for this year?
“If you had asked me pre-pandemic, I would have said the Southwest. But now, cowboy culture is in the zeitgeist with celebrities wearing cowboy hats and Beyoncé doing her country album and its fed into travel. The American West, particularly Montana and Wyoming, are in high demand.”

How do you escape the crowds in the heavy hitter parks, like Yellowstone and Yosemite or do you steer them to lesser known parks?
“If we have clients visiting Wyoming or Montana for the first time, they’re going to want to see Yellowstone. Most visitors don’t leave the trailheads, so you don’t need to go far to find some solitude. Of course first timers will want to see Old Faithful, but we contrast that experience with something really one-of-a-kind. We have a wonderful network of great guides. For example, in Yellowstone, we work with a woman who owns a team of llamas and takes people into the backcountry. And we encourage our clients to go a bit further afield, so if they visit Jackson Hole, we might also suggest they travel to Sheridan, Wyoming.”

I think many Americans think of the U.S. road trip as a D.I.Y vacation. How do you convince travelers of the value add they can get by working with you?
“Beyond logistics and great accommodations, we add value through our on-the-ground relationships, which we’ve spent over a decade fostering. In the West and Southwest, we facilitate experiences that create a deeper connection with the outdoors, like having a naturalist accompany our clients in Yellowstone National Park, for example. In New England, we send our clients to the small guy making goat cheese at an organic farm in Vermont’s Mad River Valley.”

What part of the U.S. do you think is most underrated?
“For me, it’s the South. I think it is so under-the-radar and so interesting. There’s less luxury infrastructure, but the nature and culture is fascinating. We just finished curated a trip to Louisiana that included New Orleans, but we also got the clients out on boats in the bayou and they experienced a crawfish boil.”

I’m just back from an incredible week of snowboarding with Great Bear Heli Skiing, a newer operation in British Columbia’s Central Coast Mountains run by Mandi Blewett and her daughters Dyllan and Zoe. The terrain and snow were spectacular, but it was the thoughtful, homey touches at the lodge and warm, familial service that stuck with me. It got me thinking about what a luxury—a privilege really—it is to stay at a family-run lodge. You are literally a guest in someone’s home. It’s where they have raised their family and have carved out a lifestyle that they have generously chosen to share. I always leave feeling like an extension of the family and over the years, have kept in touch with many of the families who have hosted me.

Nimmo Bay, a floating lodge in British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest, is one of my favorites. Robb Report assigned me a story on how Fraser Murray reimagined his father’s remote fly-fishing lodge as the ultimate adventure retreat. I visited with Carly Dixon, whose family owns Tutka Bay Lodge in Alaska, and Ellie Gray, of the Ultima Thule Lodge family in Alaska. Fraser was assisting fishing guides by age 7 and now he and his wife Becky are raising their two daughters in this stunning patch of wilderness. Fraser is a dreamer, and the activities he curates, like bear viewing from a floating hot tub and sea foraging expeditions with a chef, are pinch-me experiences you just can’t have anywhere else.

Ultima Thule, a fly-in lodge deep within Wrangell-St. Elias National Park doubles as the home of the Claus family. In 1960, grandma and grandpa John and Eleanor Claus staked a land claim under the Homestead Act. Their son, Paul (a legendary bush pilot) and his wife Donna raised three kids at the lodge, which is 100 miles from the nearest road. Their daughter Ellie jokes she learned to fly before she could drive. When I visited, Paul flew me around on epic adventures in his Super Cub, Donna and granny Claus prepared family-style meals, and every guest raved about granny’s legendary homemade cookies.

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The Dixons are another storied adventure family in Alaska. Carl and Kirsten spent more than 40 years living in Alaska’s roadless backcountry and their two girls, Carly and Mandy, were raised mostly off-the-grid. Let’s just say their childhood stories are far different than most kids. Today, the entire family helps run Tutka Bay lodge in Homer, where guests are treated to some of the most delicious meals I’ve ever had. These lodges are homes, but also passion projects. They give guests a taste of what it’s like to live life in the wild, where every day is an adventure.

Current Obsessions

The books, brands, and apparel I’m eyeing this month.

Beyond Peaks

Last year, I reported on Schloss Schauestein, a three-Michelin-starred restaurant tucked within a historic castle in the Swiss Alps for Robb Report. My meal there ranks among my top five of all time. Phaidon just released the gorgeous, dual-volume monograph, Beyond Peaks: The Cuisine of Schloss Schauenstein, which shares recipes from chefs Andreas Caminada and Marcel Skibba as well as stories of the gardeners, craftspeople, and winemakers whose work shapes every plate. I’ve already pre-ordered my copy.

The Nami Box

Launching this month, the Nami Box is a curation of small-batch surf essentials from Naomi Azuma, a passionate surfer who lives in Montauk, N.Y. Formerly on the creative teams at J. Crew and Faherty, Azuma has an eye for curation and each box includes around a half-dozen products from independent, BIPOC, and women-owned companies who bring fresh energy to surf culture. I’ve already signed up for the limited-edition First Wave Box.

Déjà Nu Aspen

I am far from a fashionista, but I believe a jean jacket should be a wardrobe essential. A friend recently gifted me a fabulous denim jacket from Aspen-based slow fashion brand Déjà Nu. Owner Killeen Brettmann sews heirloom Hèrmes, Gucci, and Chanel scarves into the collars, cuffs, pockets, and lining of vintage Levi’s denim jackets. I love how she’s ever so subtly elevated a timeless piece. It’s going to be my spring travel staple.

Field Notes

A quick dispatch from my recent travels.

• Lodge Love: Colorado’s historic Tumbling River Ranch is fresh off a two-year, $8 million renovation. Carma House of Design reimagined the interiors of the 1930s ranch house, cabins, and main lodge with bold wallpapers, zelige tiles, local artwork, and salvaged ranch keepsakes. The vibe is pure nostalgia, with activities such as cowboy cookouts, trail rides, campfire singalongs, and square dancing. On a clear night, I recommend stargazing from the riverside hot tubs.

  

• Memorable Meal: If you find yourself transiting through Vancouver International Airport, build in time for a meal at Wonton Mama. The Hong Kong street food pop-up is at the Fairmont Vancouver Airport hotel Friday through Sunday until April 18. The smoked duck bao is worthy of a layover.

• Spa Spotlight: On a recent snowboard trip to Alyeska Resort, my shoulder needed some TLC. The Nordic Spa was booked but a friend directed me to local Girdwood studio, Alpine Alignment. The owner, Megan, is a ski patroller and also specializes in alphabiotics, a modality that helps realign the nervous system. My massage felt like a full mind-body reboot.

Further reading + viewing

I like to end each newsletter with links to pieces I’ve written and compelling stories I’ve recently read, listened to, or watched. Here are some favorites.

• I attended the Boulder International Film Festival over the weekend and got to preview the Dark Wizard, a film that chronicles the complicated life and tragic death of BASE jumper and climber extraordinaire Dean Potter. The four-episode, HBO series airs April 14 and will keep you on the edge of your seat.

• My piece about the forthcoming Kilchoan Estate, and the rewilding efforts going on across Scotland, is in the April travel issue of Robb Report.

• In the recent issue of Garden & Gun, one of my favorite writers, John T. Edge, wrote a beautiful tribute to 50 years of hospitality at Blackberry Farm.

• Record-holding windsurfer Sarah Hauser’s new documentary, Life of Waves, is a must-watch.

Stay tuned…

• Next up, the founder of All Roads North on the art of the American road trip, getting back to the soul of safari, and a dispatch from the Jersey Shore. Thanks for subscribing.

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My first introduction to Aspen was in my 20s as a young editor working the annual Food & Wine Classic. I remember constantly being scolded for sneaking off on trail runs when I should have been manning the wine tent. Having spent most of my life on the East Coast, I was captivated by the town’s natural beauty. Aspen had restaurants, boutiques, and museums worthy of NYC yet was surrounded by snow-capped peaks instead of skyscrapers. It’s easy to dismiss Aspen as a scene-y town of billionaires and influencers. But beneath the surface, Aspen is still a mountain town with soul. Mike Kaplan, the former CEO of Aspen Skiing Co. aptly stated, it’s a town that caters to both diamonds and duct tape. I’m in the latter crowd.

Look past the bling and you’ll find a sporty, outdoors-loving community drawn to Aspen’s unique combination of big nature and big city culture. I’ve spent an afternoon skiing then later attended an evening reading by novelist Ann Patchett and in the summer, I’ve hiked to American Lake then watched Renée Fleming perform at the Aspen Music Festival. Yes, it’s one of the priciest destinations in the country, but there’s also a lot that’s free. You don’t have to pay a dime to use the bus system or Nordic and bike trails and an annual uphill pass only costs $74 and gives you access to designated routes at all four mountains. Every season has it’s own personality and appeal. I highly recommend experiencing them all.

Where to stay

If you’re going to splurge, The Little Nell’s slopeside location is unrivaled. I love the tailored design of the rooms at historic Hotel Jerome, Auberge Collection, as well the hotel’s coffee shop Felix Roasting Co. and the vibe of its speakeasy, Bad Harriet. The Mollie, located across from Paepcke Park, has 68 Scandi-Japanese rooms, a rooftop pool and terrace, and an outpost of star chef Ludo Lefebvre’s French bistro, Petit Trois. I’m constantly recommending the condos at The Gant, which feels secluded but is only a short walk to bustling downtown. Set on 40 acres on the edge of town, Aspen Meadows Resort is perfect for travelers looking to be immersed in nature and culture, rather than Aspen’s see-and-be-see scene. The all-suite hotel is done up in a Bauhaus style and is on the grounds of the Aspen Institute and The Resnick Center for Herbert Bayer Studies. I already think the gym and outdoor heated pool are pretty great but they’re getting a major upgrade soon.

In Snowmass, the Limelight, The Little Nell’s low-key sister brand, is a family-favorite with a climbing wall, wood-fired pizzas, and an address overlooking the ice skating rink. Up on Snowmass mall, the Viewline Resort Snowmass, an Autograph Collection Hotel is an affordable slopeside option with familial service and a great happy hour. It’s slated to be reimagined as a Ritz-Carlton resort in a few years, so take advantage now.

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A few years ago, Freeskier magazine asked me to profile five game-changing female ski guides. When I polled my friends in the industry, one name was unanimous: Johanna Stålnacke. Born in Kiruna, in northern Sweden, Stålnacke has worked tirelessly to pursue a career in the mountains. A petite, blonde beauty, she is the antithesis of the stereotypical gruff mountain guide, and she’s had to work hard to overcome that. “People were always surprised when they met me,” she told me for the article. “After 10 minutes skiing with me, I’d have their respect.”

Stålnacke likes to charge hard. And when her big lines started to be featured in magazines, she faced backlash. “When a woman is doing things on a high level that involve risk it’s a contrast for the general audience,” she told me. “It’s easier for them to question if this is safe and responsible than to say go for it. It comes down to exposing their insecurities. As a woman, you’re a threat.”

Stålnacke lets her skiing do the talking. In 2019, she received her hard-earned IFMGA badge—the only internationally recognized credential that allows guides to work in any country worldwide. Last December, I had the privilege to make some turns with her in Chamonix. I loved how she pushed me physically, and mentally, educating me along the way. At one point we had to cross a no-fall zone. When we made it to the other side, she had me close my eyes and reflect on the moment. “Now, when you’re in a situation like this again, you’ll remember, you’ve been here before…you got this,” she told me. Here, she shares her guiding philosophy, her favorite lines in Chamonix, and the sacrifices she’s made enroute to becoming a professional mountain guide.

Where and when were you introduced to skiing?
“Very early in life, probably already at the age of two or three. Growing up in the far north of Sweden, snow was simply part of everyday life, and skiing was almost an obligation during childhood. It became very natural for me to move on skis: first on cross-country skis and very soon learning alpine skiing through the local ski club where slalom courses were sat up every evening. We raced gates and learned to prepare the ski edges for icy courses.

Freeride and backcountry skiing came into my life as a teenager up in Riksgränsen, Sweden. That early exposure gave me a strong foundation that I built on later in life. I went studying in France and got to ski in Chamonix and La Grave.”

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When you have a winter like this one, scoring a powder day in Aspen on your birthday is about the best gift you could wish for. I was so excited I managed to lose my phone on my first run of the day and didn’t even care. I kept snowboarding until the slopes were tracked out and then went back to search. With the help of ski patrol and Find My iPhone we managed to retrieve it in less than ten minutes (total birthday karma!).

Aspen Snowmass is one of my favorite ski areas on the planet. When you look past the glitz and slopeside DJs, you’ll find a passionate community of outdoors folks who like to get after it in the mountains. I embraced the local spirit and celebrated turning 46 with a week of type 2 adventures that included hiking the legendary Highland Bowl at Aspen Highlands, daily sunrise uphill skins, and my first-ever 10th Mountain Division hut trip with Aspen Expeditions. (This explains why last week’s post never materialized!)

But the highlight of my week was making turns with the 70 Plus Ski Club. I’ll admit, I woke up on my birthday and noticed a few new wrinkles when I looked in the mirror, and my morning uphill felt a little slower than usual. But when I met up with this group of senior skiers for a story I’m reporting I was reminded that age is a mindset. This group of 100 some skiing fanatics from around the country get together throughout winter for trips to the Alps, Big Sky, and beyond. I rode the chairlift with an 83-year-old named Betty who told me, “you don’t stop skiing when you get old, you get old when you stop skiing.” That’s a mantra I’ve adopted.

When I told the seniors about my uphill obsession, they unanimously agreed that I was nuts. Skinning—skiing or snowboarding on a splitboard using sticky adhesives called skins to climb up— is my secret to longevity. It’s a killer, low-impact cardio workout that gets me out in nature and allows me to skip the lift and nab first tracks on a powder day. Aspen Snowmass has one of the most liberal uphill policies of any ski resort. All four mountains allow uphill travel and have designated routes for uphillers to follow. You can skin from 5 a.m. until 10:30 p.m., with the exception of Aspen (aka Ajax) Mountain, where skinning isn’t permitted during operating hours. I always try to attend Aspen’s community uphill events, like the Friday morning breakfast club or full moon dinners, both held at Cliffhouse Restaurant located atop Buttermilk Mountain. If you don’t have gear, Ute Mountaineer in downtown Aspen rents equipment.

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Some other things that keep me feeling young when I’m in Aspen: yoga classes at 02 with talented teacher Marco “Coco” Rojas, infrared sauna and cold plunge sessions at Base State Longevity, the heated outdoor lap pool at Aspen Meadows Resort (an underrated stay with the most tranquil grounds), a hydrating facial at Yarrow, the spa the Hotel Jerome, and a decadent late lunch of pasta bolognese paired with a spritz at Sam’s, my favorite slopeside spot in Snowmass. My Aspen cheat sheet should be dropping soon. Keep an eye out.

The New Face of Heli-Skiing

You’re forgiven if you think heli-skiing involves jumping out of chopper into white-knuckle terrain. You’ve just watched too many Warren Miller and TGR films, which only show the gnarliest of lines. In the 90s and early aughts, heli-skiing thrived on its reputation as a risk-taking, experts-only experience. Elite freeskiers lapped vert by day and partied by night. But times have changed. That original, old-school crowd is aging out, and their knees have forced them to swap steep spines for mellower terrain. And the next gen is more into saunas and cold plunges than après shotskis. The result: heli-skiing has become a lot more inclusive.

This winter, I noticed heli operations catering to a different crowd: intermediate skiers, ladies, mixed groups, even families. Valdez Heli Ski Guides in Alaska created multiple Instagram posts geared toward first-timers, touting how heli-skiing is easier than you think. And while at first glance, a heli-ski trip may look eye-poppingly expensive, VHSG did the math and it works out to about what a week at a high-end ski resort like Jackson Hole or Big Sky would cost, plus there’s the added bonus that you never have to deal with lift lines and you always score first tracks.

March and April tend to be prime heli-ski months in Canada and Alaska and there’s always a good chance you can snag a last-minute seat. I’ve been lucky enough to have experienced some of the best operators. In Alaska, I love VHSG, Third Edge Heli, and Tordrillo Mountain Lodge. TML offers a one-of-a-kind Kings & Corn experience each June where you ski corn all morning and fly fish in the afternoon. They also recently debuted a baller new wellness center with a juice bar and Nordic-inspired sauna. I’m just back from Alyeska Resort, where Aaron Brill, owner of Silverton Mountain Guides bases his heli-trips out of. Brill can access multiple zones, including the Chugach, Tordrillos, Seward, Neacolas, and Valdez. Even in tough snow years like this, he can track down blower powder (hence his nickname, the Wizard) and if you want rowdy skiing and snowboarding, he delivers.

In Canada, Mica Heliskiing has always been the best and they just took things up a notch, debuting a newly remodeled lodge this season. I rode some of the best pillows of my life on a heli trip with Eleven Revelstoke. The lodge is downtown so if you can’t fly due to weather, you can always hit the resort, located just up the road. Next week, I’m heading to Great Bear Heli Skiing in the wilds of British Columbia’s Central Coast. They’re the only women-owned heli-ski outfitter in North America with a tenure 190 times larger than Whistler Blackcomb. I’ll be reporting on my experience in an upcoming post.

Hawaii Love

I’m sending thoughts to all of the people who have been impacted by the floods in Hawaii. The natural disaster coincides with spring break and the islands depend on tourism dollars for survival. If you have a trip planned, don’t cancel. Navigate around the areas that have been worst affected by the floods and know that your tourism dollars will help the recovery.

A quick dispatch from my recent travels.

• Lodge Love: Wildbirch, Anchorage’s first new hotel in two decades, is a refreshing addition to downtown. I loved all of the local design touches, like the front desk crafted from fly rod cases, painted salmon taxidermy from local artist Romney Dobb, and wooden headboards carved into topographical maps of Denali.

• Memorable Meal: I’m already dreaming of my next meal at chef Ludo Lefebvre’s new outpost of Petit Trois at MOLLIE Aspen. The restaurant ticks all the boxes: laidback vibe, great service, creative cocktails and mocktails, and delicious bistro fare. The French onion soup was exactly what I craved after a day on the slopes.

• Spa Spotlight: Treatments at Há Yeka Wellness Center at newly opened Siari Riviera Nayarit, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve draw on the healing traditions of the native Wixárika people. The signature Siari Time therapy felt like a lavish PT session. My masterful therapist combined kinesiology techniques with reflexology and craniosacral holds to completely relax and realign my body.

  

Further reading

I like to end each newsletter with links to pieces I’ve written and compelling stories I’ve recently read or listened to. Here are some favorites.

• My piece about Battle Abbey, a storied backcountry lodge deep in BC’s Selkirk Mountains that was recently reimagined by the Webber brothers, is in the March issue of Robb Report.

• Katie Arnold, an outdoor writer I respect tremendously, penned a great op-ed about the Tahoe avalanche tragedy.

• I chronicled the important work the Cultural Sanctuaries Foundation is doing in a small community in Michoacán, Mexico for Travel + Leisure.

• One of my favorite surfers, Nathan Florence, was recently on Soundings with Jamie Brisick, the podcast series of The Surfer’s Journal. His recount of a strike mission to Sumatra is the epitome of type 2 fun.
  
  

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