Ranch Redux
Vol #11 Where to saddle up this summer, Maui's newest wellness sanctuary, and a dining detour just outside of Aspen.
I’ve been going to dude ranches way before Yellowstone or Beyoncé made cowboy culture cool. When I moved to Colorado from the East Coast more than a decade ago, I made a point to play out my cowgirl fantasies at least once a year. Initially, the activities—horseback riding, fly fishing, archery, hiking, clay shooting—motivated the trips. But it was the vast landscapes that kept pulling me back. Immersed in big nature, I felt my entire nervous system reset. Over the years, some of my best girlfriend getaways have been to ranches in the American West. Cute wranglers and an opportunity to don boots and cowgirl hats are part of the draw, but really, there’s no better way to reconnect with friends than on a long trail ride, lazy float trip, or sipping whiskey under a starry sky. Whether your priority is riding or relaxing, there’s a ranch that will deliver just the right amount of Wild West adventure you crave. Here’s my very subjective list of the best ranches in the West.
When Riding is the Main Event
3 Spear Ranch, Dubois, Wyoming
Owner Creed Garnick is a former rodeo star who hails from one of Wyoming’s oldest ranching families. He even traveled to Kyrgyzstan to captain the first U.S. team in kok-boru, an outrageous Central Asian horseback sport. All that’s to say, is this guy can ride and 3 Spear’s overnight pack trips in the Dunoir Valley are a dream for riders who want to spend all day in the saddle. You can read more about the ranch in my feature in Robb Report.
Paintrock Canyon Ranch, Hyattville, Wyoming
Now in its third season, this 80,000-acre working cattle ranch at the edge of Wyoming’s Bighorn Mountains is owned and operated by Ranchlands, a fourth-generation, family-owned ranch management company focused on land stewardship and conservation. Throughout the year, Paintrock offers a handful of advanced riders’ weeks that explore parts of the ranch only reachable on longer, faster-paced rides. Be ready to be saddle sore. You can learn more about Ranchlands and Paintrock from this Q&A I did with founder Duke Phillips III.
For a Ranch of Your Own
Reid Creek Lodge, Douglas, Wyoming
This exclusive-use lodge on the 300,000 acres of Wagonhound Land & Livestock can accommodate up to 14 guests. You can fine-tune your riding skills in the property’s state-of-the-art equestrian arena before heading out on the endless network of trails. There’s also a mechanical bull for guests who want to test their rodeo skills.
Smith Fork Ranch, Crawford, Colorado
L.A.-based design firm Commune just gave this exclusive-use property a hip refresh; a riverside spa was added this summer. Anglers won’t want to miss the Gold Medal fly fishing on the Gunnison and highly underrated Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is just 30 minutes away.
For a Summer Camp Vibe
Tumbling River Ranch, Grant, Colorado
Campfire sing-a-longs led by local folk artist Randall McKinnon, lawn games like corn hole and ladder toss, S’mores for the kiddos and beer poking for the adults. This historic ranch has welcomed families for 80 years and still has a nostalgic pull. New owners recently gave the 21-room property an $8 million overhaul. The talented chef hails from Dunton Hot Springs and the creekside, lined with cedar hot tubs, a barrel sauna, and the natural cold plunge, is exactly where you’ll want to end your day after rock climbing, horseback riding, rafting, and hiking.
For the Pinnacle of Western Luxury
The Ranch at Rock Creek, Philipsburg, Montana
The Ranch at Rock Creek has set the bar for wow-factor bells and whistles, including a bowling alley, karaoke, a cinema, and a saloon with vintage saddle stools. But at the end of the day, guests rebook for the old-school experiences, like the ranch rodeo and float trips that are straight out of A River Runs Through It.
For an American Safari Experience
Vermejo, Raton, New Mexico
Part of the late Ted Turner's conservation-driven reserve portfolio, Vermejo feels like a private national park. Spread across more than a half million acres of wilderness, the property boasts 19 fishable lakes, 30 miles of streams, and loads of wildlife. The fall elk rut is not-to-be-missed, and spring is full of fuzzy baby bison. On my last visit, we actually watched a bison give birth.
For the Littles
Brush Creek Ranch, Saratoga, Wyoming
The Li’l Wranglers program keeps kids ages 4 to 9 occupied from sunup to sundown with pursuits like capture the flag, scavenger hunts, water gun fights, and gold panning. Older kids can channel their inner wrangler on cattle drives, barrel racing clinics, and horsemanship workshops.
C Lazy U Ranch, Granby, Colorado
Kids feel like VIPs at C Lazy U. The ranch has dedicated programs for teens, kids, and “little ranch hands” ages 3 to 5 with activities that range from pony rides and donkey grooming to pond fishing and line dancing. In the summer, kids even eat separately from adults for dinner.
An Adults-Only Escape with a Culinary Edge
Magee Homestead, Saratoga, Wyoming
Brushcreek Ranch’s adults-only, sister property sits just across the street but has a more refined, relaxed vibe. The owner’s drew inspiration from Blackberry Farm and just up the road you’ll find a farm, creamery, bakery, distillery, spirit vault, and a James Bond-worthy underground wine cellar. Needless to say, the food is spectacular.
Field Notes
A quick dispatch from my recent travels.
Spa Spotlight: I’ve always admired how Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea has never rested on its laurels (which it easily could have post White Lotus). Always innovating and updating, the resort recently debuted Kai Holo Spa. In Hawaiian, the name loosely translates to the ocean’s flow. A stress-melting aqua thermal circuit is complimented by treatments that straddle traditional native wisdom (lomi lomi massages the incorporate fern oils sourced from Kauai), and of-the-moment biohacks (a hyberbaric oxygen chamber).
Lodge Love: I’m just back from an epic sailing adventure in Haida Gwaii (more on that later). Moresby Island is one of the main gateways to access the archipelago’s national park reserve, marine conservation area, and Haida heritage site and Hecate’s Retreat, in the town of Sandspit, was a perfect base for an overnight before we set sail. The property recently added cozy, arched cabins with kitchenettes, plus has a sauna and cold plunge, ebikes, and a pickleball court, all complimentary for guests. The Clubhouse restaurant—one of just a handful of eateries on the island—draws a local crowd with its fresh-caught seafood and upstairs patio with ocean views.
Memorable Meal: If I lived in Colorado’s Roaring Fork Valley, I’d be a regular at Amara, a new Mediterranean spot in the town of Carbondale, located 40 minutes northwest of Aspen. A passion project from two Little Nell alum, it’s earned cult following for its table side tinned fish service and Tuesday night paella dinners.
Table-side tinned can service at Amara. Photo credit: Ahrling Studios
Further reading + viewing
I like to end each newsletter with links to pieces I’ve written and compelling stories I’ve recently read, listened to, or watched. Here are some favorites.
Denver’s city magazine, 5280, devoted an entire recent issue to cowboy culture.
It’s the summer of Jack Johnson. This profile in the New York Times has been a favorite in the barrage of coverage he’s received after the release of his new documentary, SURFILMUSIC.
Gloria Liu’s latest piece for Outside is a great read that argues that California is now America’s most ambitious environmental experiment and its outcomes could shape climate policy far beyond the borders of the Golden State.
I love anything Gisela Williams reports, especially her recent love letter to Mid-Coast Maine for Harper’s Bazaar.
I wrote about finding the confidence to take my first-solo heliski trip as part of the awesome digital solo travel issue from Travel + Leisure.
Stay tuned…
Next up, an interview with one of South Africa’s most skilled safari guides, a Q&A with the team behind Faraway Hotels, and dispatches from Jackson Hole and Haida Gwaii. Thanks for subscribing.
